Three exquisite handicrafts from Odisha that will inspire you

Traditional crafts of Odisha…

Odisha’s magnificent temples and silky beaches have been working overtime to pull in the throngs forever. But there’s so much more under the shroud of modesty surrounding this nearly-neglected eastern state of India. Like its untouched forests, secret gorges, abundant wildlife and a rich treasury of traditional arts and crafts. From elaborate stone carving and mask-making to fine silver filigree and handloom, a handicraft tour of Odisha can prove to be an adventure as well as a challenge. Smart traveller alternative? Kala Bhoomi, the Crafts Museum in the capital city of Bhubaneshwar. Every local art form lovingly curated, impeccably designed exhibit galleries and in-depth expert-guided tours by Ekamra Walks make it a mecca for the artistically inclined. Set aside an afternoon to soak in the soul of the city through the unspoken stories of its centuries-old crafts. Here’s a lowdown of three exquisite handicrafts from Odisha that left the deepest impressions on my heart.   

Painstaking palm-leaf narratives

Celebrate the tradition: Flash-backing to 2000 years may seem like a feat, till you come across a specimen of a time-worn Talapattachitra (literally ‘palm leaf illustration’). In the heritage of village of Raghurajpur, just an hour away from Odisha’s capital, Bhubaneshwar, yesterday merges seamlessly with today. Lipikaars (scribes) spend their entire lives creating hand-written copies of sacred verses and ancient literature on palm leaves, just like ancient times, when they did so under the patronage of kings and temple authorities. From decorative manuscripts to illustrative fables and folklore to art form…its no surprise why this rare craft is also Odisha’s most beloved. After all, the roots of its inspiration are Lord Jagannath and the Vaishnava cult.

Applaud the craft: Imagine a vintage-style scroll made of faded, hardened leaves that cleverly packs up into a compact pile of slim folds, held together by fragile thread. Etched meticulously and minutely with finest of stencilled drawings using an iron stylus. Recounting episodes from mythology, including Ramayana and Mahabharata. Flaunting lace-like finery. Duping you with a print-like quality. Always intricate and very expressive. Bold and striking in lamp black or vibrant and bright in natural colours. Every medium it has touched beyond the original palm leaves (cloth, paper, terracotta and even walls) over the centuries, has only added to its undying grace. A quintessential symbol of Odisha culture to treasure for all times.

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Embrace the art: Watch a magical specimen come to life under expert hands in one of the hundreds of workshops in the houses of Raghurajpur. Let your heart be the judge, as you scrounge for a piece that will find a place of honour in your own home. A set of Ganjifa cards, that ancient palace game (a Persian import), which the masses made their own. It even served as an intricate recitation of Hindu scriptures because of its detailed and varied imagery. An irresistible indulgence…whether as a card game, framed wall hangings, or even glass coasters. Or a classic black beauty in true talapattachitra style, like the one that I fell for?

Muted metallic monologues

Celebrate the tradition: Its a timeline of at least 5000 years. Indigenous tribes stumbled upon the abundance of natural resources in the mineral-rich central Indian belt and a streak of ingenuity transformed lifestyles forever. A never-seen-before line of craftsmen hit the market with uniquely handcrafted metal ware, Inspired by indigenous folk culture and traditional motifs, such as animals, birds, cattle, humans and gods-goddesses. These metal-smiths of the nomadic Dhokra tribe went from one village to another earning a living by selling their goods, mostly ceremonial and religious figurines, ornaments and kitchen ware. The craft has miraculously survived the test of time. Odisha is still proud home to the distinctive Dhokra art.

Applaud the craft: Have a soft corner for the delightfully disproportionate, charmingly crooked and perfectly imperfect? Then the primitive starkness of Dhokra’s old-gold, antiquity will fascinate you. Until you step behind the shopping shelf into the workshop. Where artisans fashion metal objects from bronze and copper-based alloys using an unusual method called ‘lost wax casting’. Bees-wax wires are wrapped around a coarse clay model till a clearer replica emerges and coated with a second, finer clay layer to create a final mould. Molten metal is poured into the mould, the cast is removed and ornamental finishing touches are added. A single piece could take up to a month or two to be created. Factoid: one of the earliest known lost wax casting artefacts known to mankind is the legendary dancing girl of Mohenjodaro. Head bow!

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Embrace the art: Made of scrap metal and eco-friendly, but that’s not the reason Dhokra continues as an unbroken tradition. Reinvention is. From one-of-a-kind utility items like door handle, ash-tray, candle-stand, photo-frame and tissue box to unique home decor, buttons and tribal jewellery, creators are determined to stick around for eternity. My find? An languidly reclining, skirt-clad lady with a literary bent of mind. What better quirky addition for the home library?

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Eloquently earthy tales

Celebrate the tradition: An unexpected choice, in comparison to other better known crafts synonymous with Odisha, but terracotta makes a prime target for its ancestry…it’s as old as the Indus Valley civilisations of Harappa and Mohenjodaro. One of the earlier mediums used by humans, to promote settled living…whether as vessels, houses, decoration, jewellery, art, toys, religious figurines, using clay from rich alluvium silt of river valleys, it continues to reign supreme in its own way, even in the millennial age. Which medieval town would have its medieval tag without those red-brick roofs?

Applaud the craft: Huge cooking pots, massive storage containers, everyday utensils, lamps, animal figurines, roof tiles and deity images…terracotta offers flexibility for endless applications. Not just utilitarian, but heavily adorned with colors, artistic outlines and scalloped edges too. Items created in clay by the terracotta process are treated with partially dried refined clay and then then cast into a mould, cooked in a hot furnace or over combustible material and dried in open air. A process which looks fairly simple but requires dexterity and delicacy of hands. One trial pottery class moulding wet clay into the simplest of shapes on a revolving potter’s wheel, is revelation enough. A split-second distraction can spells disaster. Best recommendation for site visit beyond the city? Baleshwar in western Odisha. Where traditional terracotta is still churned out tirelessly as the local mainstay.

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Embrace the art: Eyebrow-raising element that will up the fascination factor? Unique roof figurines in terracotta that locals have been using to decorate the clay roof tiles of their houses since eons. Birds, squirrels, monkeys and mice, planted to scare away wild animals the way that scarecrows work in fields. With the cutest of expressions…confused to woeful to furious to suspicious…these symbols of earth and nature are worth collecting to add to the atmosphere of one’s urban garden. Emojis of the past…and endearing symbols of the deeply-ingrained culture, binding us together, across the length and breath of our country.

 

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Traditional crafts of Odisha #talapattachitra #pattachitra #dhokra #pottery #kalabhoomi #ekamrawalks

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How I made the most of my 3rd year of travel blogging

From travel blogger to legit travel writer…

129 blog posts. 1,30,000 words. 1000 days of blogging. Whoosh! I must have blinked. Pinch me…has it been three years already since a nervous newbie first bared her soul online in the coveted cosmos of travel ‘influencers’? It’s been a joyride, this 3rd year of my third career, riding on wings of un-jaded exuberance and unscathed passion. Would it be too presumptuous to pat my own back just yet? Considering that one of my several vices happens to be an irreversible and intense intolerance for routine.

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Celebrating the credits

Non-essentials apart, I’m still hanging in there, partly thanks to a deliberate, deep dive into the world of bylines. Off-roading into more familiar territory, with a mission to refuel my creative engine, as a legit writer. Stoked by the challenge of unexplored topics. Fired by the push of non-negotiable deadlines. And charged by a voracious appetite to write. Hitting the high notes with over a dozen travel articles published in the last 8 months in a handful of inflight magazines (Air Vistara, Air India, Air Asia, Jazeera Airways) and a leading travel website (Matador Network) thrown in for good measure. And the most rewarding…an unexpected release in India’s top travel magazine (Outlook Traveller). Scroll through my published works here.

Personal drumroll moment? Four of these articles mysteriously synchronising their appearance in four different magazines in the very last month of my third year, inflating my balance sheet of happiness to full-blown proportions. Yayy! How does that happen out of the blue? Who’s been eavesdropping on my dreams?

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Memorabilia of moments

Note to self. Blogging or byline, ultimately both are incidental offshoots. So, rewinding to my favourite memories from the heady concoction of trips and trails from the year gone by. Starting from my own backyard. And what a backyard. A fascinating walking tour of Chawri Bazaar and Jamia Masjid in Old Delhi, where streets are still named after ancient trades. A bedazzling day gaping at the priceless collection of the royal Nizam’s Jewels, including the famed Jacob’s Diamond, in a once-in-12 years, heavily guarded exhibition in the capital’s National Museum. Impromptu self-guided photography expeditions to unearth lesser-known monuments hidden in the urban sprawl. Attending expert-led talks on a wide range of subjects ranging from religious symbolism to the evolution of magic. And a wondrous soak in a Dastangoi session, reviving the lost art form of 13th century Urdu oral storytelling in the country. No shortage of brushes with heritage in Delhi. Phew!

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Adding first-time experiences to my growing treasury of travel. Fighting irrational fear with a rowboat ride along the crocodile-infested Mahanadi at Satkosia Gorge in Orissa. Learning about age-old art of Pattachitra in the crafts village of Raghurajpur. Plunging into lost heritage during a temple trail in Bhubaneshwar, getting a lump in my throat watching a beautiful Odissi dance performance and picking up my jaw from the floor at the majestic complex of Konark. Wow!

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Following my instinct and discovering the magic of Madikeri, Karnataka…kissing clouds, picking strawberries, going on coffee tours, and understanding the local Kodava culture. Driving with rolled-down windows and windswept hair around North Goa, in search of unknown churches, sleepy villages and vibrant Portuguese mansions. Giving in to gluttony like famished victims during food trails in the streets of Amritsar and Lucknow. And absorbing the silence of offbeat British cantonment towns of Kasauli and Dagshai in Himachal, where the thing to do is ‘smell pines and do-nothing’.

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Across the borders, fulfilling a long-overdue fantasy in the captivating capital of Turkey. Tirelessly tracing miles along the blue Bosphorus, unveiling the secrets of the harem in Topkapi Palace, craning my neck at the glorious mosques of Sultanahmet, wandering through the maze of the grand bazaars, listening to the musical azaan and staring transfixed at the Whirling Dervishes. Thinking why one trip is never enough, no matter how long.

And, it’s a wrap

Solving every dilemma, wiping away every doubt with my very own ‘never-fail’ quote, “Do what you do if no one was watching.” From almost-trapped-in-the-abyss of a social-media driven existence, to a free-willing-waltz down an alternative avenue of my own design, its been a liberating third year. I still do a small jig when blog traffic spikes and crease my forehead into a frown at all-time lows. But the obsession for visits, clicks and views has melted away, leaving behind the soft silt of peace. Even Instagram is not that close a friend anymore. Sticking my neck out, in admitting that the follower game seems so last-season to me now. But there can be no raves without rants. So, despite all the intelligent improvising, fatigue still manages to raise its ugly head sometimes. Fortunately, a gentle inner voice whispers in parallel, “Remember, this is the life you wanted desperately”. Always works.

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Endnote, then. Living a dream is nothing like it sounds…it has its own share of tedium, trauma, toil and tears. Ok, much less dramatic. So, reality bites for all those glamour-stricken 20-somethings, mid-career shifters and everyone else who harbours the illusion that a life revolving around travel is a cakewalk…have you ever tried walking on cake? Meanwhile, Year 4. Bring it on.

 

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From travel blogger to legit travel writer in my 3rd year of travel blogging #travelwriter #travelblogger #travelblogging #blogversary #travelphilosophy #travelwriting

Do you know of the five best neighbourhoods in Lisbon?

Exploring Lisbon’s best areas…

An unmistakable Mediterranean-ism and a wild Atlantic coast! Europe’s westernmost country literally has the best of both worlds. Voyage-driven history, staggering landscapes, Moorish roots, and a unique culture that changed the face of its colonies for posterity. Certainly a destination to redefine your vision of the continent. So give in to the pull of Portugal. Submit to the lure of Lisbon. With my rundown of the top five most atmospheric neighbourhoods in the capital.

Baixa: Dressed to impress

Baixa in Central Lisbon makes a powerful statement with its wide tree-lined avenues and rows of elegant neo-classical mansions adorned in intricate tile-work. Portuguese statues in spacious squares stand as proud symbols of victory. Stares guaranteed all along its most important grand boulevard, Avenida da Liberdade, mimicking the Parisian Champs Elysees. Perfect curtain-raiser to the grid-like Lower Town, the first example of urban planning in Europe and hub of all action in the capital.

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Quintessential curiosities: Flashback to the times of executions, bull fights and royal proclamations in Lisbon’s Town Square, Rossio. It is still a much-loved public space with its baroque fountain, black-white Calcada floor design and iconic art deco Café Nicola. No shortage of sights in the area, from the Elevador de Santa Justa, to streets named after traditional crafts (Rua da Prata or Silversmiths’ Street and Rua dos Sapateiros or Cobblers’ Street) to the main shopping drag, Rue Augusta, ending in the large Placa Commercio. Waterfront, wind and wonder whisk into a delightful froth, in the mellow light of the evening. Amplified by the cheerful yellow buildings of the large square buzzing with tourist activity.

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Eye-candy alert: Don’t forget to look down at the white, polished limestone square patchwork pavements, shiny and slippery with millions of footsteps over the centuries. Dozens of black-and-white wavy or geometric patterns, completely unlike each other. Never-ending amazement!

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Chiado: Trendy chic

The aura of quiet sophistication envelops you with the first few steps into Chiado’s wide streets. Slip into your prima-donna avatar and match up to the the harmony of mansions on both sides. Steal glances at theaters, browse in classy boutiques, linger in artefact galleries, gape at jewellery stores and stare at design houses…follow the mandate, forget the map. Stop by statues of literary greats like Fernando Pessoa, Luis de Camões, and Eça de Queiroz and listen to their wordless accounts. Because even a 20th-century fire couldn’t burn away Lisbon’s intellectual heart.

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Quintessential curiosities: Prowl around the ruins of Convento do Carmo, an old Gothic convent, and famous icon of Lisbon. Think about Chiado’s survival instinct at the São Roque Church…standing strong even after the 1755 quake. Order genuine Brazilian coffee at ‘A Brasileira’, the most historical café of them all (circa 1905) or marvel at the interiors of the city’s oldest restaurant, Tavares Restaurant (from 1784), as you savour shrimps in herb sauce.

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Eye-candy alert: And while you’re still wondering if lineage is the unwritten code of conduct in Chiado, stumble upon the world’s oldest bookstore, Livraria Bertrand. No cobweb corners or dusty piles here, despite being in business for 300 years. 95% books are Portuguese, but why should that stop you from gloating at the shelves?

 

Bairro Alto: Bohemian rhapsody

The original bohemian haunt of artists and writers in Portugal’s capital has a vibe unlike any other. Traditional tile-decorated buildings and graffiti-ridden façades, shabby-chic shops, steep, tram-lined streets of Bairro Alto (High Town). Quiet and calm of the day morphs into vibrant nightlife with the many international restaurants, lively bistros and crowded bars sprinkled all over the area.

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Quintessential curiosities: Igreja de Santa Catarina is a gilded baroque wonder dating 17th-century with lovely stucco rococo ceiling and delicately sculpted figures of St Catherine, St Paul and St Anthony. Spend some time absorbing in the peace and prettiness from the pews. Later, melt into the night with a bar-hop in Rua Diário de Notícias, the neighborhood’s central street. The protocol, as part of the neighborhood’s trademark image, is to stand outside with a drink in hand. Bottoms up? Time to move to the next bar.

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Eye-candy alert: Go vista hunting in the narrow downhill alley-ways and create  your own mind-map of the Lisbon’s raw appeal. And when you’re seeking iconic, venture to two of my fave spots with magical views of Sao Jorge Castle…Calçada do Duque street and Miradouro De Sao Pedro de Alcantara. Gasp. Breathe. Repeat.

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Belem: Back in time

Pretend to be a sardine-in-a-can on the Tram 500 from Figuera Square to Belem. Lisbon’s most historical neighbourhood, located at the mouth of the River Tagus was the point from where Portugal’s celebrity explorers launched their famous Voyages of Discoveries.

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Quintessential curiosities: 15th-century Jeronimos Monastery, one of the most important monuments in Lisbon and Unesco World Heritage, built by King D. Manuel I, with gold loot from Portuguese discoveries, is worth a couple of hours of gawping for its Manueline architectural details…spires, gargoyles, vaulted corridors,  cloisters, azulejo murals, massive cathedral and Vasco da Gama’s tomb. Soak in as deep as you can. Get inspired by the adventurous spirit of the real travellers of yesterday at the Monument of Discovery. Twirl uninhibited on the glorious Calcada-tile world compass and map, marking places they found. Take a windswept walk to the 16-century Tower of Belem, which was once an island in the river, when Tagus reached Jeronimos Monastery. Enjoy views of the bridge and harbour before heading back.

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Eye-candy alert: Join the queues under the blue canopies of the legendary Pasties de Belem to experience the original 1837 recipe of Pasties da Nata, the iconic olden-yellow tartlet filled with deliciously rich, creamy, baked egg custard. This is food heaven for the taste, aromas and sights of delicious goodies filling the fast-emptying counters. Remember to find the azulejo tiled-wall on the inside parlour. 

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Alfama: Gritty glam

Ride the Tram 15 to Puerto Sol and set foot into the city’s oldest core, Alfama (from Arabic ‘Al-hamma’ or ‘hot baths’). Inhabited by fishing folk in the days of yore,  and neighbourhood of the underprivileged till today, Alfama’s grunge factor is hard to ignore.

Quintessential curiosities: Head to the medieval Castle of São Jorge, the royal residence until the early 16th century to admire remnants of the Moorish city walls, and various terraces (Miradouros) for glorious birds-eye views. Stop by the Lisbon Cathedral (12th–14th centuries), the oldest of the city before trace out hidden delights in the narrow streets that meander off in different directions. There’s even a Jewish Quarter to tempt you along the way. The obligatory? Reservations for a Fado dinner. Recommendations? Clube de Fado. Melancholic music to feed your soul, while your tastebuds feed on typical Bacalhau a braz in an intimate setting. And shhh.. no talking, please.

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Eye-candy alert: Alfama’s labyrinth of narrow streets and small squares is replete with endless photo-opportunities. White-washed old houses, twisty and crooked flights of steps, unexpected views, modest churches and leftovers of ancient structures to amaze you. Crying babies, snoozing cats, chatting women, quirky street art and shoes drying outside doors to capture your heart. Intruding into personal spaces was never so rewarding.

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And when you wave goodbye to the ‘City of the Seven Hills’, you will know…one visit was not enough.

 

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Exploring Lisbon's best areas #portugal #lisbon #alfama #bairro alto #baixa #belem #chiado

Soak in the splendour of the Royal Palace of Madrid

Inside Madrid’s Royal Palace…

You turn a final corner and there it is in front of you…the grand 18th-century Palacio Real de Madrid (Royal Palace of Madrid). Protecting the largest royal palace in Western Europe is an elegant, gilded decorative iron fencing in bold black and gold, offsetting the purist white of the magnificent structure beyond.

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Escape to the joy of simple pleasures in Kasauli

Charming hill getaway from Delhi

Hazy outline of towering hills and a wide open highway. Loaded fuel tank and overdose of healthy munchies. Chirpy laughter and five light hearts. Road-trip, mini-getaway and squad goals. Kasauli calling!

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Five peaceful spots in Cesky Krumlov that you need to see

Cesky Krumlov, the offbeat way

Gawking over the iconic sights in a fairytale town like Cesky Krumlov is a given. Who can escape the attraction of the dreamiest of settings…medieval castle overlooking a time-warped, red-roof huddle of houses, and a gushing river wrapping it like a satiny ribbon. But there’s another Cesky Krumlov, hidden, and off-the-beaten path. Tempting you to wander into nooks where few others are venturing. All you need is your incorrigible curiosity to lead the way. The rewards? Unanticipated discoveries. Here are my favourite five solitude-filled spots to swoon over, in the cutest town of the Czech Republic.

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Have you been to the fascinating fairytale town of Cesky Krumlov?

Cesky Krumlov, the iconic way…

Imagine green-yellow hues of the pastoral countryside of southern Czech Republic. Leading to an enchanting cobbled town cozily hidden within gently sloping hills. And a towering castle straight out of a Bohemian fairytale. Cynic or romantic…Český Krumlov can lure anyone into an endearing 16th-century time warp.

Continue reading “Have you been to the fascinating fairytale town of Cesky Krumlov?”