Feel the irresistible allure of the Algarve

Published on by 100cobbledroads

A lazy, laid-back vibe…

Moorish legends, an exotic coastal countryside, trailblazing Portuguese voyagers of yore, and a name shrouded in mystique (from Arabic al-Gharb, meaning ‘the West’). How can anyone dare to skip Algarve from their Portugal itinerary? 

We picked Portimao as our base. So much less touristy than the nightlife hub Albufeira and the golf mecca Villamoura. And perfect for its proximity to Lagos, Sagres, and Monchique…which were our other lures. Missed Tavira, but you can’t have it all, can you? Multiple queues at the coach counters on Faro airport seemed like a setback until we reminded ourselves that October is off-season. An hour-long wait for the next bus or a seventy euro taxi. Hmm…devil or the deep blue sea, we pondered, before a taxi driver offered a shared ride with three other passengers. Five minutes, coffee and bags of munchies later, we were on our way. 

The narrow, but impeccably maintained highway is bordered by a dry landscape…first views of the Atlantic teasingly elude you all the way. Meanwhile, an intermittent scattering of empty resort towns, overflowing with holiday homes, resorts and hotel complexes, continue to tug at your curiosity. Vacation world since the 60s…a favourite of tourists from UK, Germany, the Netherlands and Ireland. Property prices? Tell me those two words didn’t pop into your mind for a split second there.

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Small whitewashed houses with white shuttered-windows, red-tiled roofs and quaint, decorative chimneys…very mediterranean, very arab-inspired. What’s with the chimneys? During the Reconquista, many Muslims who resisted conversion, started installing chimneys on their roofs to identify fellow members of their community. Somehow, it became a national tradition. Now these smoke-emission agents have become symbols of the family…bigger, better, well cared for, clean and smoke-free.

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An hour’s drive and you pull into Portimao. The city centre has a pleasant waterfront with several lively outdoor cafes, and some pretty churches in the old quarter (which doesn’t seem that old). Great alternative when you want more buzz or shop for local produce like preserves and condiments. Public transport is limited, and city buses ply through every half hour. People rent cars or bikes, and spotting a taxi stand can be an amusing treasure hunt. They aren’t marked out distinctly.

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Courtesy: Wikipedia

As you cross the quiet, winding roads of the small city centre, the spaces open up. The size of this resort town will surprise you…just 50,000 residents, but over ten times that can fit into the hundreds of those empty apartment buildings. Notice that only a handful have lights on clothes drying in the balconies. Off-season blessings for people like us, who don’t want to fight for a space on the beach. Dozens of resorts and hotels by the sea as well as rental apartments and cottages to cater to every budget.

While in Portimao, if luxe is your choice, consider Bela Vista Hotel, perched on a cliff overlooking the endless golden sands of Praia da Rocha. Built in 1918, it has the aura of a private mansion, complete with a grand piano, gilded-frame paintings and delicate objects d’art. From the champagne-and-orange welcome drink to the navy-red-white themed room with spectacular views of the sea and rock formations…its all pure Algarve. The guest book is a witness to who’s who from history, including Sidónio Pais, the King of Italy Umberto di Savoia, Fulgêncio Baptista, among others.

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Luxurious breakfast on a sprawling terrace with unending seascapes, glorious sun, palm trees, canopied day-beds, rattan chairs, surprise fruit smoothies in tiny tequila glasses…can you ask for more? We even splurged on a gourmet seven-course dinner at the hotel restaurant for our anniversary. The 2.5 hour-long event included a gracious host who explained the concept of each dish in detail, a surprise tasting menu and synchronised movements of the two servers (one for each of us). Oh, and did I mention their La’Occitane spa…set aside half a day to pamper yourself with this other-worldly experience.

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How can you possibly deny yourself the liberty of laziness in Algarve? Aimless strolls along the pedestrian Avenue Tomas Cabreira will become a compulsive habit. Shops and eateries lined all along  beckon seductively and you are magnetically drawn in to browse for colorful souvenirs, flapping sarongs and dangling flip-flops. The barbecue counter at the Cafe del Mar fuels your appetite. Savour a tipica (typical) meal of chicken piri piri or chicken steak in peppercorn sauce with thick rice. Hog shamelessly on the fries as you soak in the classic Portuguese yellow-blue-white decor.

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There are enough food choices to keep you satiated for a few days. An Irish pub, an American steak house, a couple of pizzerias, some Indian joints, and a British cafe that advertises fresh ham crepes, fruit smoothies, almond cake slice with strawberry and cream. Let your hair down and dance the night away at the jamming club, if you’re feeling a little crazy. Fresh seafood by the sea…yes, please. Everything is a few steps away. Sun-tanned elderly couples to young parents with toddlers…this is where time stands still for everyone. Sit back at the street-facing cafes or benches, sipping beers, juices and shakes, till you’re sleepy from the sun. Watch the couple waiting outside a bike-rental shop, squatting, chatting on the pavement for over half an hour, till the shop opens…no one is in a hurry to get anywhere. Gaze. Daydream. Revel in nothingness. 

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And of course, there’s the beach. Everything pales in comparison. Wake up to the most glorious of morning walks. The meditative swooshing of the incessant waves. The slow sinking of your feet as the soft golden sands melt away. The curl of your toes against the foamy, frothy, lace-edged waters. The dance of the floating cotton-wool clouds against the pure blue canvas. Let your bare feet soak in the warmth of the wooden planks along the endless boardwalk. Stare at the mesmerising rock formations jutting out on the far right. Float, swim, dive, play. Wonder about the ebb and fall of the tide. About the mysteries of nature. About the Portuguese voyagers. Drop onto one of the hundreds of loungers…close your eyes and just be.

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In the evening, walk to the Miradoura viewpoint for an unbelievable, blazing sunset. Some photographer racing with his tripod and camera may overtake you, making you quicken your steps too. From high up there, with the Praia da Rocha sprawled beneath you, cool wind blowing your hair into your line of sight, screams of seagulls breaking the song of the waves, your one thought will be…can’t I freeze this moment forever? And if you can drag your eyes away from the ever-changing brushstrokes of the flaming fuschia-orange skies and gentle darkening of the silvery waters, you might even notice the fascinating compass-like pattern on the floor.

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And this, then, is the essence of life in the Algarve…a languid retreat in the lap of nature. Where waves and winds provide the background score, the sky puts up a dazzling show every night and velvety sand carpets lie under your feet. What are waiting for? Just go!

115 thoughts on “Feel the irresistible allure of the Algarve”

  1. A poetic description! Minds turning to house prices, hah!

    Thanks for the quick tour. You’re describing a recent experience, I take it? I imagine it can have cold and wet days still.

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  3. I am always in for a peaceful offbeat destination and it’s exactly that. Also, the story of how muslims started installing chimneys on their house to identify fellows is so interesting. And must say, your sunset pictures are stunning.

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  4. Until a few months ago I don’t think I ever heard of this destination, but now I’ve seen it featured in quite a number of blog articles. I guess it’s becoming more and more popular. And it should be known by more people: the water has such a beautiful blue color, and that sunset left me speechless. Thanks for sharing!

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  5. I’ve visited Portugal a few times and can’t remember if I ever went to Algarve. I definitely will visit it in the future though, looks like a perfect seaside town! I imagine sunset would be beautiful here from your photos

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  6. Absolutely adore your descriptions, I’ve admittedly been to Portugal but not eh Algarve (I was on a surfing holiday). The “Small whitewashed houses with white shuttered-windows” remind me of the south of France too and Santorini in Greece. I love the look of them, feels like I’ve been whisked away on holiday immediately. Thank you for the whirlwind tour.

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  7. It felt I was reading some poetry! But it is no exaggeration for a place as charming and lovely as this. I really love the homes all painted in white and the deep pink bougainvillea climber. How I wish to spend a few days there. The beach looks spectacular without any crowd. Shoulder seasons are the best to explore destinations.

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  8. What a wonderful place ! The food and sunset looks wonderful ! Seems like perfect place for holiday! I have to check it out as I havent even heard about it before! Thanks for sharing!

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  9. I go to the Algarve at least twice a year, to Tavira, the place you missed! Car hire is ridiculously cheap from Faro airport too so you can miss the bus and taxi. I see you guys enjoyed the food and beach whilst relaxing, that’s the way to enjoy the Algarve!

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  10. I loved the algarve it is a stunning place to visit. I stayed in Faro and Lagos, beautiful places too. I also got the local bus to a few of the villages around and to sagres. I didn’t visit the town you stayed in but I will certainly be back for a visit 🙂

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  12. I love travelling in the off season or shoulder season as like you said you do not have to compete with the crowds of other tourists.
    I haven’t been to the Algarve but I think I would really enjoy it when it is a little less busy. I love the whit houses a splash with colour. The sunset photos are also amazing. thanks for sharing.

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  16. I have never been to Europe. But I know a handful of places because of Club Football. This post is a nice intro to Algarve. The pictures and the poetic narration makes this place irresistible.

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  17. Hi Punita, I’ve never been to Algarve… but reading your post, felt like being there myself. I adore the way you write and how you describe everything. I simpy love reading your blog and am already looking forward to reading the next post 😉

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  19. As a Portuguese I always get this warm feeling when people like my country… 🙂
    Algarve is quite a special place, it has mass tourism but also seculed places to wander around.
    Have you been to Porto? It’s has become very popular with tourists in the last 5 to 10 years 🙂

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    1. Ah! I’m in love with Portugal. Its a special, special country, full of warmth and natural beauty, an underplayed elegance and vibrance. Yes, we went to Porto, and the love affair started with that city, actually. Sat on the Ribiera for 3 hours watching the sunset.

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  22. I love Portugal but I’ve never been to the Algarve – it’s really popular with Brits and so, being a perverse sort I go elsewhere! But I have no doubt, after reading your feature, that I should go! Looks wonderful

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  28. I’m afraid I did skip the Algarve when I visited Portugal last summer. Now I wish I hadn’t! Your photos of the beach and the sunset are gorgeous. And I would surely love to eat fresh fish by the water.

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  31. This place looks tempting, and never heard of it too. But reading about it has made me put in on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing such an off beat destination

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  34. Algarve is a really nice holiday spot – if you love Portugal, try also Azores! Volcanic islands where the food is buried in the ground and cooked by the volcanic activity! You can also enjoy hot springs, exceptional caldera lakes and unbelievably unique and beautiful nature. Fortunately, few people know about Azores, so if you’re tired of the crowds of tourists, you can take a cheap flight from Portugal 🙂

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  36. I went to the Algarve on so many family holidays when I was younger – and it’s still as beautiful now as it was then. I loved it because it’s quite a quiet destination (when you don’t visit in the height of the UK holiday season) and it can feel like you practically have the place to yourself. And not sharing those sunsets would just be magical!

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  39. You have some great pictures – it’s making me want to catch a flight there right now! The view from Miradoura viewpoint looks absolutely incredible. Looks like there’s plenty of places to eat and drink too.

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  41. I love the white washed houses and the subset by the beach. Makes Portugal look truly awe inspiring. So glad you got to go in the off season. I’m going in November and will definitely save this post for later. Thanks!

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  42. Okay I admit it, I went to Portugal and didn’t spend time in Algarve, but I promise I’ll go back just for that! The places you went look so great and I love Portuguese food! The coursed tasting menu you had sounds fabulous.

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  43. My husband just told me before that he wanted to go to Portugal as well. But you said you stayed for like 2 weeks there, I think longer than that will be better. I love this post. This must be helpful when we go there. 🙂

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  47. This small place looks amazing. its look so calm and peaceful. You have captured some really awesome pics. these amazing pics making this place more lovely.

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  48. Portugal has nice places like Algarve, nice people, good food plus it is a cheap destination (at least in Europe). Can’t wait to touch Portuguese land in just one month! Loved your introduction picture, very inspiring.

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