A day in Kotor, Montenegro’s prettiest town…
Honest confession. To start off, I was first drawn to Montenegro by the clever deception created by James Bond’s Casino Royale. In reality, not a single scene was shot there. Revelation. It is a thousand times more enchanting than the fantasy its name evokes.
If you’re only 350 km away in neighbouring Dubrovnik, missing one of the youngest countries of Europe is a sin. Steal a day for a fascinating preview, as we did, and you will be left hungering for more. The drive, for one, is a treat for the eyes. Leaving Dubrovnik’s medieval walls, as you hit the spectacular road high above the coast, you will be engulfed in a sensory overload of unspoilt nature. Drench in the sight of the sparkling deep-blue sapphire waters, the mesmerising views of the sea at every bend, the raw exotica of the looming mountains and the velvety lushness of the forest cover.
Small, sleepy towns with mundane apartment blocks along the Adriatic coastline give away the reality. No laid back sophistication of Croatia here… Montenegro is far less prosperous. Flow with the enchanting everyday scenes…an elderly man reading the newspaper outside his house, a woman and her son running to catch a bus, clothes drying on the balcony, people buying veggies and groceries, unassuming motels advertising ‘camare’ (that’s Hindi for rooms too!). Ordinary people with ordinary houses facing the extraordinary sea. Reflect on the interesting historical evolution…from the Venetians to the Serbs and the Turks to a free country status during World War I and a democracy as late as 2006. Now chew on this…a little over half million inhabitants and a staggering 1.2 million tourists. A country bursting at the seams?
The scintillating drive continues along the stunning Bay of Kotor, Europe’s most southern fiord. For an hour and a half, the two-lane road curves and winds along the 40 meters deep and 20 km long Bay of Kotor, entrapping you with its silent beauty. Towering mountains, rising vertically from the sea, peaks kissing the skies, mystical monasteries carved into solid rock. Houses dotting the hills on one side of the narrow road, and the glittering waters of the sea mirroring the glory of the vista. Melt into the magic.
Stop for a photo opportunity of the famous two islets, Sveti Dorde, the natural one, covered with trees and the manmade ‘Our Lady of the Rocks’, where a painting of Virgin Mary was discovered inside a rock. Let your eyes lazily hover around the scene of the lake-like bay, enclosed on three sides by the tall mountainous walls. You cannot capture its serenity on film…but its image will creep silently in your heart and stay embedded forever.
You can see it in its full glory now. Kotor, the most interesting town in Montenegro, under the shelter of that ‘black (dark) mountain’ as the Venetians called it. An inviting scatter of white-and-red limestone, basking in the sun, on the glittering shores of the Adriatic, where minimum temperature never falls below 7-10 degrees. No nail biting snow here…simply unending gorgeous weather all year round. Unemployed or not, Montenegrins sure have the best of both worlds!
With just about 13,000 inhabitants, of which 3000 occupy a cozy maze of ancient stone houses inside the delightful labyrinth of the 7th-century fortified city, the town curiously manages to retain its sense of space. An imposing walled structure and fortifications that once served as protection against invaders, now attracts tourists by the millions. The wall snakes 1000 steps up the steep limestone cliffs behind, which faces the most beautiful bay in the world. The hike is worth it, if you have the stamina and the luxury of time.
Brace yourself for impact as you enter the fortified town from the main Sea Gate into the main square. It will be pulsating with hordes of tourists, but don’t lose heart just yet…tranquil spots await. Its easy to spot the usual suspects…the old Arsenal, Theatre, Rector’s Palace and the Clock Tower. Trace your eyes along the continuity of the stone architecture all around…simple houses share walls with these symbols of the town’s medieval past. The impression is one of uniquely modest grandeur (if you can call it that).
There are a handful of restaurants, cafes and hotels, and lots of shopping to cater to the crowds. Yet, Kotor is clearly less commercial than Dubrovnik, and therein lies its brand of charm. An innocent naiveté lingers in its Adriatic air. The crowds will thin away into oblivion the moment you step into a quiet side street. One cannot really get lost in an area less than 400 square km, but it’s easy to stray and lose track of time…so put away that watch and disappear into those delightful folds. Forget agenda, maps and landmarks. Tell yourself you have nowhere to be, and roam around for hours.
The Venetian influence is obvious in the traditional mansions and the churches spread across the town…in the green shuttered windows, stone balustrade balconies and the decorative archways. Reach out and touch the blackened limestone…many of these solid structures have stood the test of time.
There are more churches than you would expect in such a small area, so wander into as many as you fancy. But don’t miss the largest of them…the UNESCO protected Catholic Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, tucked away in the crowded St Luke’s square. One of the oldest on the Adriatic coast, this temple dedicated to St. Tryphon, patron saint of Montenegro, goes as far as back as 1166. Attached to the largest Cathedral is the town’s smallest and strongest, St Luke (it has survived most earthquake disasters). This one deserves special attention for of its two altars, Orthodox and Catholic. Browse the incensed interior. No Notre Dame this, but you will be overpowered by the quiet elegance.
Back in the main square, steal time to sip coffee and savour a slice of melt-in-your-mouth cake at Forza, Kotor’s famous pastry shop, watching the unending crowds assemble and disperse. Up above, a local resident will peer curiously from her bedroom window into the street below, her arms resting on the window sill, taking stock of the crowds gathered outside her home…unaware that she is posing for an enchanting photo. She will travel home with you as an image in your camera…a lovely memory of a glorious afternoon in Montenegro’s prettiest town. And as you leave, you will find yourself making a pact…I’m going to come back to this country for more. Much more!
100cobbledroads.com 
Montenegro is on my list this year… after reading your blog … I have stepped it up to must visit list . You write beautifully!
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Nice photogallery!
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Thank you!
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Did you do the 1000 step hike that you mention? And I found it quite interesting that Europe’s southern most fijord is there. Thanks for all the detail in your post.
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Unfortunately, we were short of time, but I believe the views are unparalleled. Do go…
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During my last year’s visit to Dubrovnik, I did indeed take a detour to Montenegro and can totally emphasise with everything you said. The beauty on display throughout the country is nothing short of spectacular while the weather is seemingly always idyllic. That being said however, my photography skills certainly don’t match yours from my time there!
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Montenegro certainly deserves a couple of weeks on its own. That’s a very generous comment on my pictures, coming from someone whose photography skills are like a benchmark 🙂
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I loved Kotor and Montenegro – people say it’s off the beaten path – but not for the tourists from the East! It was packed when I was there. The city, the fortress and the views were so stunning. If you loved Montenegro I would also recommend you visit Albania, just across the border – you’ll be shocked how amazing it is! Everyone skips Albania and what they miss is: paradise beaches, turquoise lakes and springs, beautiful mountains, canyons and unique fairy tale like towns…
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Thanks for the suggestion. I have heard great things about Albania, and now that you mention it, I will research deeper. Sounds just delightful !
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I am going to Montenegro in June, I can’t wait to go. It looks so beautiful from your photos. Its making me excited and I have pinned your post to make sure I don’t miss anything when I am there.
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Hope you have the time of your life..
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We loved Kotor so much! For such a small place it has so much to do and it’s so beautiful! We loved hiking up the old walls for the fantastic views of the bay and the old town!
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The hike up must have been so rewarding.
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Still on my list – and moving up a fair bit after your post. Some of the newer Eastern Bloc countries are so stunning
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They all have an aura of ‘modest grandeur’ as I said 🙂
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Beautiful photographs. Your vivid descriptions of Montenegro bring one of Europe’s youngest countries to life. The whole of the old Yugoslavia is such a stunning and interesting region, one which will only become more popular as time goes on.
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Thanks so much for your comment. Hidden Europe, coming to fore, fast.
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Did the same to see Montenegro after my Dubrovnik trip! Really would love to go back and see Montenegro properly!
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Yes, it deserves so much more time!
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Lovely tour around Montenegro. The old facades of the little churches attract me the most. The ancient stone houses sound so mysterious and deserves a separate dedicated tour.
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One can really roam around for several hours in this tiny town. It all depends on how deeply you have it in you to experience history and architecture.
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Love the pictures. I too often get tempted to visit locations shown in movies. But then I have learned the hard way to check about the locations before I decide on the destination from Movies. The cobbled streets quite interesting. I would love to walk aimlessly in a town as beautiful as this.
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Sometimes movie locations help because its a really large canvas on which to visualise the destination. Otherwise, every place has its own brand of beauty.
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Montenegro does look incredible! Those old houses and churches look gorgeous as if they’re frozen in time!!!
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Yes, its really a lovely little country.
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I learned a lot by reading this post, most notably that Montenegro is a country, not a city. And here I thought I was well-traveled and cultured! I recently moved to Europe, so accessing Montenegro is a lot easier for me now. I will have to add it to the list!
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Moved to Europe? Lucky you! So much to see within reach.
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Haha, great how you discribed the woman watching the crowd from her bedroom window, I love those kind of details. Beside that, I learned something new today, because I didn’t know that the Bay of Kotor is Europe’s most southern fiord… And with the minimal temperatures not falling below 7-10 degrees, I guess I have to go to Kotor during winter, when the rest of Europe’s freezing! 🙂 Thanks for this tip.
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Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed the read. Enjoy Montenegro! You can add Perast and Budva to the Kotor trip.
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Your pics are great! I was in Montenegro two years ago but I’m thinking to go back this summer as well. Small but beautiful!
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Second time round is always more fun…even less on the agenda, more time to absorb. Enjoy!
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Montenegro is in my list for so many years. NEver got a chance to see it though. Your blog has only made the urge more stronger. thanks *wink*
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Hope you are able to make it there soon 🙂
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Nice Post! We were just there. They are often mistakenly referred to as Europe’s southernmost fjords, but are actually rias, submerged river beds. Great laid back town.
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Rias, is it? That’s a new piece of information I didn’t have. Thank you for sharing!
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We didn’t do the hike up to the viewpoint either. It was over 100 Fahrenheit and there were wild fires, so we wouldn’t have even been rewarded with a great view if we had hiked up. Did you visit anywhere else in Montenegro? Sveti Stefan was pretty spectacular.
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Yes, we went to Negusi and Budva. Both were delightful. Will be doing more posts on these…
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No wonder the Cathedral is a UNESCO site. It looks amazing inside. And I love the views of the Adriatic from the coast of Montenegro. Looks so enchanting and picturesque. And I too thought it would be like Casino Royale. Lol. Glad to know it was even better than the fantasy.
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Coastal towns are my favourite, but this one is an outstanding example.
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This post really made me want to visit Montenegro. I’m sure I will get there in the next couple of years. The place seems so unspoiled and full of history. And I didn’t know Casino Royale wasn’t really shot there! Good to know the real place is better than James Bond.
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Yes, it is pretty much unspoilt still. Charming town. Stunning scenery.
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Montenegro is on our travel list for this year! We admire your photos, they are so inviting. We wish we can spend several days in a country like this, we need to explore its beautiful spots. Thank you for the overview!
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And this is just Kotor..there’s so much more to Montenegro. What’s your itinerary like?
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We visited Dubrovnik a couple of years ago, but didn’t make the trip to Montenegro – kind of regretting it now! But, just means we have an excuse to plan another trip to this part of Europe. Montenegro looks absolutely beautiful – had no idea it was one of the world’s youngest countries! You really can see the influence from places like Italy and Croatia … can’t wait to travel here!
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A trip is due then! It has influences, but still a unique character of its own.
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The landscapes amazed me beyond imagination. The daily routine of people and the staggering number of tourists is mind blowing. But such a beautiful place deserves to be seen at least once
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Absolutely! You should go..
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It looks so beautiful! I can’t believe that none of the James Bond scenes were filmed there tho – I totally thought they were! We skipped the day trip to Montenegro from Dubrovnik a few years ago and have regretted it ever since.
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Haha, I believe those locations are in Czech, not Montenegro.
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You write so beautifully. I loved all your pictures. There is a perfect blend of pictures and content. Interesting to know the ordinary people just follow the normal routines. Did you try those 1000 stairs hike along limestone cliff? How was your experience with it?
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Thanks for your generous comment. No, we did not go up the fort…we couldn’t get enough of the walled city of Kotor 🙂 and then it was time to leave.
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I love the Balkans! I’ve been to Albania, Macedonia, Croatia, and Bosnia. Would love to visit Montenegro soon.
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Still have to make it to Albania, Macedonia and Bosnia!
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There are really places like that, where there seem to (or in fact) have more tourists than locals! Like Prague, Budapest, Iceland, etc. Montenegro looks so beautiful though, thanks to your extraordinary photography skills! 🙂
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Thanks so much! Tourism is inevitable in this day and age, and thanks to it, destinations are flourishing too.
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Agreed! We spent the day in Kotor and fell in love with the little gem. We hiked the wall up for the most amazing views and took a boat ride to Perast. Just lovely!
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Great that you went to Perast too. I believe its lovely.
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Love Kotor and love Montenegro! I agree with you that it is a place full of magic. Unfortunately I have seen that “most beautiful bay in the world” you talk about completely occupied by a huge cruise ship so unspoilt unspoilt unfortunately not . . . Thanks for this nice post
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Aww…sad! We went at a time when we had it all to ourselves, so it was perfect!
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Beautiful photos and We have never been to Montenegro but it for sure is on our list especially after your post! Thanks for sharing !
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Glad you enjoyed the post!
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i really want to visit Dubrovnik after watching it in some movies. After reading your post you give me one more destination to add in my itinerary. You got some really good pics as well.
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Montenegro is such an essential detour from Dubrovnik.
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Thank you for the introduction to Montenegro! We really want to get to Dubrovnik so it’s nice to know of other areas to explore nearby! Gorgeous photos!
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Its a perfect combination..Croatia and Montenegro…go for it!
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I never really thought about going to Montenegro, but it looks really awesome I have to say. I like the historical facts and buildings. They look so pretty! Also the road along the coast must be extremely joyful to ride!
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It really is lovely, and I have just mentioned Kotor in my post. The whole country is a feast for the eyes.
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I am going to be traveling here in a couple of weeks, so excited! The views and landscape just look incredible. Looks like you had a fab time!
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Great choice of destination! It is going to be an unforgettable trip.
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We’ll be spending close to a week in Montenegro in May! Your post made me so excited for our visit. Did you visit Durmitor National Park and the Tara Canyon apart from Kotor?
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A week sounds excellent. We also went to Budva and Negusi, but could not include the Durmitor National Park and the Tara Canyon. Would love to go back.
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From your pictures and description, this place reminds me a little of the quaint town of Liechtenstein. The views of course, were more mountains but the charm was quite similar. I love the heady combo of landscape and heritage in this one. Lovely images
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I recall going to Liechtenstein for the Rhine Falls. Yes, it was charming. Here, in Kotor, of course, the bay is the highlight 🙂
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You do a fantastic job of selling Montenegro! Your writing does a wonderful job of evoking curiousity and passion. I’ll definitely be pushing for it to be included in my end of year Europe trip.
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Thank you so much! You will enjoy Montenegro tremendously.
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This looks like such a gem to visit! Great stories and pictures … Now i’m even more intrigued that the Bond film already made me 🙂
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Glad you liked the post 🙂
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We visited Kotor as a port call on our cruise and absolutely loved it! This post definitely has me reminiscing our few hours here. You briefly talked about the hiking up the wall, but I did not grasp if you did. I am curious because we did and really enjoyed the early morning hike. The views from the top were magnificent and reminded us of Lord of the Rings. Wondering if you felt the same 🙂
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Isn’t Kotor just too delightful? We didn’t go up for the hike, we were too enchanted by the town.
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Yes, it is! We did the hike very early in the morning. It was a lot of fun and so beautiful. We were shocked by how delicious and inexpensive the food was in the city.
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Great Blog! Thank you for your sharing!
http://bit.ly/2muUAOo
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People are always looking for less commercial destinations without too many tourists and Montenegro sounds like a good choice. It sounds like they do gert a lot of tourism but still not as much as some places.
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I think tourism is a inevitable part of travel and one has to consciously filter it out, because some of the most stunning places are overcrowded..but that’s not good enough reason for us to miss them out. We pick shoulder season to get the best of both worlds.
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The fortified walls, the architecture, the sea, the food and the mountains. Everything seems to excite me about Montenegro. I’m happy I’ll be able to visit it in a few weeks from now!
Happy travels!
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Wow! You will love it! Have a great trip 🙂
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