Exploring Lisbon’s best areas…
An unmistakable Mediterranean-ism and a wild Atlantic coast! Europe’s westernmost country literally has the best of both worlds. Voyage-driven history, staggering landscapes, Moorish roots, and a unique culture that changed the face of its colonies for posterity. Certainly a destination to redefine your vision of the continent. So give in to the pull of Portugal. Submit to the lure of Lisbon. With my rundown of the top five most atmospheric neighbourhoods in the capital.
Baixa: Dressed to impress
Baixa in Central Lisbon makes a powerful statement with its wide tree-lined avenues and rows of elegant neo-classical mansions adorned in intricate tile-work. Portuguese statues in spacious squares stand as proud symbols of victory. Stares guaranteed all along its most important grand boulevard, Avenida da Liberdade, mimicking the Parisian Champs Elysees. Perfect curtain-raiser to the grid-like Lower Town, the first example of urban planning in Europe and hub of all action in the capital.
Quintessential curiosities: Flashback to the times of executions, bull fights and royal proclamations in Lisbon’s Town Square, Rossio. It is still a much-loved public space with its baroque fountain, black-white Calcada floor design and iconic art deco Café Nicola. No shortage of sights in the area, from the Elevador de Santa Justa, to streets named after traditional crafts (Rua da Prata or Silversmiths’ Street and Rua dos Sapateiros or Cobblers’ Street) to the main shopping drag, Rue Augusta, ending in the large Placa Commercio. Waterfront, wind and wonder whisk into a delightful froth, in the mellow light of the evening. Amplified by the cheerful yellow buildings of the large square buzzing with tourist activity.
Eye-candy alert: Don’t forget to look down at the white, polished limestone square patchwork pavements, shiny and slippery with millions of footsteps over the centuries. Dozens of black-and-white wavy or geometric patterns, completely unlike each other. Never-ending amazement!
Chiado: Trendy chic
The aura of quiet sophistication envelops you with the first few steps into Chiado’s wide streets. Slip into your prima-donna avatar and match up to the the harmony of mansions on both sides. Steal glances at theaters, browse in classy boutiques, linger in artefact galleries, gape at jewellery stores and stare at design houses…follow the mandate, forget the map. Stop by statues of literary greats like Fernando Pessoa, Luis de Camões, and Eça de Queiroz and listen to their wordless accounts. Because even a 20th-century fire couldn’t burn away Lisbon’s intellectual heart.
Quintessential curiosities: Prowl around the ruins of Convento do Carmo, an old Gothic convent, and famous icon of Lisbon. Think about Chiado’s survival instinct at the São Roque Church…standing strong even after the 1755 quake. Order genuine Brazilian coffee at ‘A Brasileira’, the most historical café of them all (circa 1905) or marvel at the interiors of the city’s oldest restaurant, Tavares Restaurant (from 1784), as you savour shrimps in herb sauce.
Eye-candy alert: And while you’re still wondering if lineage is the unwritten code of conduct in Chiado, stumble upon the world’s oldest bookstore, Livraria Bertrand. No cobweb corners or dusty piles here, despite being in business for 300 years. 95% books are Portuguese, but why should that stop you from gloating at the shelves?
Bairro Alto: Bohemian rhapsody
The original bohemian haunt of artists and writers in Portugal’s capital has a vibe unlike any other. Traditional tile-decorated buildings and graffiti-ridden façades, shabby-chic shops, steep, tram-lined streets of Bairro Alto (High Town). Quiet and calm of the day morphs into vibrant nightlife with the many international restaurants, lively bistros and crowded bars sprinkled all over the area.
Quintessential curiosities: Igreja de Santa Catarina is a gilded baroque wonder dating 17th-century with lovely stucco rococo ceiling and delicately sculpted figures of St Catherine, St Paul and St Anthony. Spend some time absorbing in the peace and prettiness from the pews. Later, melt into the night with a bar-hop in Rua Diário de Notícias, the neighborhood’s central street. The protocol, as part of the neighborhood’s trademark image, is to stand outside with a drink in hand. Bottoms up? Time to move to the next bar.
Eye-candy alert: Go vista hunting in the narrow downhill alley-ways and create your own mind-map of the Lisbon’s raw appeal. And when you’re seeking iconic, venture to two of my fave spots with magical views of Sao Jorge Castle…Calçada do Duque street and Miradouro De Sao Pedro de Alcantara. Gasp. Breathe. Repeat.
Belem: Back in time
Pretend to be a sardine-in-a-can on the Tram 500 from Figuera Square to Belem. Lisbon’s most historical neighbourhood, located at the mouth of the River Tagus was the point from where Portugal’s celebrity explorers launched their famous Voyages of Discoveries.
Quintessential curiosities: 15th-century Jeronimos Monastery, one of the most important monuments in Lisbon and Unesco World Heritage, built by King D. Manuel I, with gold loot from Portuguese discoveries, is worth a couple of hours of gawping for its Manueline architectural details…spires, gargoyles, vaulted corridors, cloisters, azulejo murals, massive cathedral and Vasco da Gama’s tomb. Soak in as deep as you can. Get inspired by the adventurous spirit of the real travellers of yesterday at the Monument of Discovery. Twirl uninhibited on the glorious Calcada-tile world compass and map, marking places they found. Take a windswept walk to the 16-century Tower of Belem, which was once an island in the river, when Tagus reached Jeronimos Monastery. Enjoy views of the bridge and harbour before heading back.
Eye-candy alert: Join the queues under the blue canopies of the legendary Pasties de Belem to experience the original 1837 recipe of Pasties da Nata, the iconic olden-yellow tartlet filled with deliciously rich, creamy, baked egg custard. This is food heaven for the taste, aromas and sights of delicious goodies filling the fast-emptying counters. Remember to find the azulejo tiled-wall on the inside parlour.
Alfama: Gritty glam
Ride the Tram 15 to Puerto Sol and set foot into the city’s oldest core, Alfama (from Arabic ‘Al-hamma’ or ‘hot baths’). Inhabited by fishing folk in the days of yore, and neighbourhood of the underprivileged till today, Alfama’s grunge factor is hard to ignore.
Quintessential curiosities: Head to the medieval Castle of São Jorge, the royal residence until the early 16th century to admire remnants of the Moorish city walls, and various terraces (Miradouros) for glorious birds-eye views. Stop by the Lisbon Cathedral (12th–14th centuries), the oldest of the city before trace out hidden delights in the narrow streets that meander off in different directions. There’s even a Jewish Quarter to tempt you along the way. The obligatory? Reservations for a Fado dinner. Recommendations? Clube de Fado. Melancholic music to feed your soul, while your tastebuds feed on typical Bacalhau a braz in an intimate setting. And shhh.. no talking, please.
Eye-candy alert: Alfama’s labyrinth of narrow streets and small squares is replete with endless photo-opportunities. White-washed old houses, twisty and crooked flights of steps, unexpected views, modest churches and leftovers of ancient structures to amaze you. Crying babies, snoozing cats, chatting women, quirky street art and shoes drying outside doors to capture your heart. Intruding into personal spaces was never so rewarding.
And when you wave goodbye to the ‘City of the Seven Hills’, you will know…one visit was not enough.
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You brought back such great memories of Lisbon. One of my all time favourite spots to visit. There was so much to see strolling down Avenida da Liberdade. We are so sorry we missed spending more time in the Bairro Alto area. Every time we saw the trams head up we were on our way somewhere else. I do need to head back. If only to satisfy my cravings for Portuguese tarts!
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I would go back just for those tarts too!
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I been to Lisbon and did all these districts and my favourite has to be Alfama, I love the fact the area can be quieter than other parts of the city (unless its tourist seasons), and the buildings/views here are just amazing.
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Alfama has a magic of its own, we loved our cheeky wanderings down those crooked streets.
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What an absolutely fascinating (and creative) city Lisbon sounds to be. I’ve never yet been there myself, but gosh you’ve just made me add it to the bucket list. The ancient buildings would be great to explore, the food would be wonderful to indulge in. I can even see the value in getting lost in the streets as you wander and explore.
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Thank you so much! That is a generous comment 🙂 Hope you go and explore Lisbon soon.
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Love the colorful buildings in the Baixa district. Had a chuckle when I saw Burger King in one of those old buildings. Yum, that Portuguese tart looks tasty.
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Its lovely to see modern elements getting integrated into old, isn’t it, Debra?
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You have some beautiful photos! Lisbon is such a fun city to explore. Jeronimo’s Monastery was closed when I visited, it looks beautiful. I really liked the area around the pink street too.
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Thanks Sherianne. Love the grunge element the most in these pictures.
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Wow, such lovely neighbourhoods you’ve picked to talk about. While I would love to explore Baixa with its neoclassical mansions and Portuguese statues, Bairro Alto’s Bohemian vibes and graffiti facades are extremely charming. And how can I not make it to Lisbon’s most historic neighbourhood, Belem?
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Thanks Medha. Every part of Lisbon has its own personality. Such a delight.
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I haven’t been to Lisbon and I certainly didn’t realise its such a pretty city, your photos are absolutely amazing and has definitely left me wanting to go there. Love that you have provided so many different neighbours so you can decide where is best for you to stay. I could wander those old streets and buildings for days.
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Wandering around in Lisbon is always full of surprises.
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Oh, I think I could wander the streets in Lisbon for days and days. The Convento do Carmo looks like it is all made of gold. Is that correct? The streets are quite interesting. It’s amazing that they are so decorative just for people to walk on.
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Gold churches are one of the highlights of Portugal. Reconquista!
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I adore those patterned streets and learning that there are so many variations. Beautiful Lisbon. I can’t wait to explore on my own one day.
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The streets were my fave too!
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All these articles and posts about Lisbon keeps pushing it up to the top of my bucket list! I don’t much about any neighborhoods there but you’ve certainly given me the base starting point. Charming photos too!
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Thanks Adonis. Lisbon charmed me like no other European city.
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I don’t know if I’ll ever make it to Portugal, but I’ve heard so much about Lisbon and seen so many gorgeous photos, I really should put it on my list. So many beautiful neighborhoods to choose from — I’d probably go with the most colorful ones!
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You should go, Tami!
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We were in Lisbon for a week in 2017. Beside the great city my personal highlight was the crossing of the bridge of the 26th of April on foot! We ran the mini marathon there every year in March. And only on this run can you walk across the bridge as a pedestrian. It was gorgeous! When I read your article many wonderful memories came back. Thank you!
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Wow, that marathon must have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
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We visited last year and stayed on the edge of Barrio Alto, I was worried about the hills but you get used to them after a few days and they do help work off the tarts! I thought I would want to stay in Alfama because it looks so unique but I think I would have got lost getting home every night!
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The hills are so great and so are the endless steps 🙂
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I am definitely saving this. I always am looking for the best neighborhoods when I travel. Lisbon is a place I would really like to go. I will have to reference back.
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Portugal and Lisbon deserve several trips, just one was not enough for me.
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Lisbon looks like a fantastic place to visit. Your photos are gorgeous and makes me want to put Lisbon and Portugal on places to visit list. Your description about the neighborhoods is great. I think I’ll go with the one which has good food scene. Those tarts look so yum!
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Portugal is very unusual with its quaint cities and breathtaking countryside. Very different from every other part of Europe.
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Lisbon is on top in my wishlist and my husband has visited it many times for his conference. Reading your post makes me go along with him. The tram-lined streets of Bairro Alto looks stunning.
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Definitely my fave city in Europe.
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Lisbon has always captivated our imagination and is a place we are planning to travel to in the next year or so. Have to see the Avenida da Liberdade. And the various neighborhoods, like the Bairro Alto look so wonderful. And now I am hungry for some Portuguese tarts! Mmmmmmmmmmmm.
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It is a city like no other, Michael.
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Lisbon is full of happening streets and places. I would love to stroll at Barrio Alto or Belem or even Chiado. It’s difficult to miss any of them. You have listed all the best ones of the city.
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Its a marvel of a city, Shreya.
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