Lyon, France’s second city, is my first choice…
Taking a train from Provence through the peaceful countryside into the bustling train station of Gare de Lyon Part Dieu can be a jolt of sorts. There’s a buzz in the country’s second-largest metropolitan area, home to over 1.6 million people…and you can feel it even as you hail a cab. At 7.30, people are already on the roads, driving to work, waiting at bus stops, opening their boulangeries and coffee shops. The laid back, relaxed atmosphere of Southern France is behind you…this is city life, busy and bustling…after all, you’re closer to Paris. Ready up to discover the country’s gastronomic capital.
The cab crosses the bridge over the Rhone river and you adore Lyon already. Along the river banks, classically styled grand buildings face a broad tree-lined avenue and a lovely waterside promenade. Peaceful green spaces, bike lanes, people strolling, chatting, reading books on wooden benches by the water. It is impossible to miss the sprawling monument with a splendid dome facing the river. A distinctive landmark, the Hotel Dieu, a historic hospital built in the 12th century, and a medical facility till today, is one of the largest monuments of Lyon. Further ahead, leaving the river and the buildings behind, you are in the heart of Lyon’s peninsula or Presqu’ile as the area between its two rivers Rhone and Saone is called. Lively and energetic, brimming with impressive buildings, fountains, squares, shops and department stores. So much like Paris…on a smaller scale.
Pick Grand Hotel Des Terreaux, one of Lyon’s oldest hotels for the warm atmosphere of an old-fashioned 19th century town house combined with a modern, innovative décor. Prime location too, just walking distance from main squares of Lyon and on the edge of the historic centre. Everything is within stone’s throw.
You don’t need to venture too far to immersing in the town’s charm…stepping out of the hotel will suffice. Let your curiosity overtake you as you sample the boulangerie opposite, where locals are buying fresh bread of different types…garlic, walnut, baguettes, croissants, beignets (French doughnuts) and round loaves. A takeaway to munch…yes, please. Amble along the Presqu’ile filled with its classical style mansions and thousands of boutiques and stores, including designer labels and all possible brands of high street shopping. Europe’s biggest pedestrian shopping area…the stretch between Rue Victor Hugo and Rue de la Republique…is huge, though compact and completely walkable…and teeming with shoppers.
The street ends at Place Bellecour, the edge of the largest pedestrian square in Europe, which is surrounded by fine 19th century buildings and has a large statue of King Louis XIV mounted on a horse right in the centre of the open space. In winters, the square becomes a centre for entertainment, when an ice skating rink and a large giant wheel are installed here. Every Friday night, Place Bellecour is also the starting point of Lyon’s roller blade ride (similar to that which takes place in Paris). Rows of cafes and bistros fills the streets crossing and running parallel to Rue de la Republique. Choices aplenty. Or in true French style, you can opt for a quicker meal of delicious french baguettes and a variety of desserts…caramel eclair, Madeline and fondant chocolate caramel beurre.
Walking back the same way, head for the other major square, the Place des Terreaux. Coffee is calling by now…so sink into a chair under one of the many canopied outdoor cafes with your cappuccino, gazing at the magnificent fountain (La Fontaine Bartholdi), designed by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, the same genius who created the Statue of Liberty. The fountain (reminiscent of the Trevis in Rome), depicts France (symbolised by the woman harnessing four horses, or four major rivers of the nation). To think that this peaceful square was once the site of the guillotine during the French Revolution! Today, Lyon’s administrative and artistic hub, it is marked by the imposing the City Hall (Hotel de Ville), at the eastern end of the plaza, and the Opera with its famous eight muses.
Opposite the fountain stands the great Beaux Arts Museum, featuring works of art from ancient times to today, including Reubens, Monet, Gauguin, Degas and Picasso. Old-school tram lines run along the Museum side. Inside the museum, stroll around the lovely garden courtyard scattered with sculptures, till you reach the former abbey, where a groom in his black suit and the bride in her beautiful off-shoulder white wedding gown are holding hands endearingly, looking into each other’s eyes. Where are the guests? But the movie camera gives it all away… it is just a wedding scene being shot for a commercial. Reel, not real life romance here.
Evening descends upon Lyon, and the city changes its complexion as you look on. A short detour takes you to the Saone river banks. people browse for second hand books. People are walking, running along the river banks below, sitting on the edge of parapets, chatting, catching up before going home. A man walks home with a brown bag of baguettes, a woman buys cold cuts from the boulangerie, a girl cycles past, a car waits patiently for us to cross the road, shops close for the day. Everyday exotic life in Lyon…
The sun sets and the calm ripples of the dark water are ablaze by the reflection of thousands of lights from the buildings on the opposite bank…red, yellow, green, blue and white coloured dots on the surface of the water lend an ethereal feel. The streets and squares light up and every building morphs into a monument, bathed in soft gold. An elegant harmony everywhere. A couple makes choices from a restaurant menu, a few friends laugh over beers at a bouchon table by the pavement. On the other side, the Vieux Lyon (read my post on the Old Town here) sprawls on the hill, its grand cathedral and Eiffel-lookalike, both sparkling elegantly.
Lyon is so much like Paris, you realize…grand opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even an Eiffel-clone. But in its own league…with its ancient Roman ruins, fine cuisine and quality of life. France’s second city is my first choice for more reasons than I can count. Which is yours?
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100cobbledroads.com 
Beautiful! The city has so much charm. I wish to visit it one day.
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Thanks Diana! Lyon took us by surprise.
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last october I spent 3 amazing days in Lyon 🙂 there was so much to do and see, I would love to return there 🙂 it was a pleasure to read your impressions and see your photos from this lovely city 🙂 cheers from Lisbon, PedroL
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Isn’t it a great second city?
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indeed 🙂 Lyon is perfect, wouldn´t mind to live there for a while 🙂 cheers, PedroL
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Lyon is beautiful! I really does remind me so much of Paris. I would love to visit Place Bellecour. In any season it sounds so lively. I also had no idea Lyon had roman ruins. It has such a great variety of things to see and do. It’s definitely going on our list for the next time we visit France.
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Apart from Roman ruins, another intriguing feature of the ancient city is the traboules. See my post here…https://100cobbledroads.com/2016/12/22/one-perfect-day-in-the-beating-heart-of-lyon/
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Lyon has been on my list for a long time. I really did not think it was such a large metropolitan city. But then, it is known as a foodie haven. So that must require a big city. I love the idea of visiting a city where rows of cafes and bistros fill the streets. Certainly a spot with a view of the Fountaine Bartholdi would be ideal. Or maybe a spot by the banks of the Saone River. Definitely still very high on my travel wish list.
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Few people know about the charms of Lyon. Maybe that’s a good thing too 🙂
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A great guide – you make me want to go. Thanks!
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Thanks so much!
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Lyon do remind me of Paris. It has all of the architecture but none of the crowds. I can see how it can be first in your heart.
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Lyon is a perfect example of second cities can be more attractive.
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Your description of a day in Lyon sounds lovely. I visited some time ago, but the streets were filled with a big protest. I would love to go back and experience Lyon as you have, enjoying some caramel eclairs and browsing through the second-hand books. Then I’ll be able to tell you which one I like best.
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Off/shoulder season is my season of choice to soak in a city’s peace. Maybe try that?
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Wow Lyon looks so beautiful. Have been thinking of a trip to France in the fall, I think it would be the perfect time to visit. Just want to visit all the beautiful streets you’ve photographed!
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Fall is so lovely with all the colors. Lyon would be dreamy then…
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There is nothing French I wouldn’t like, so Lyon definitely fits the bill. I had it on my list of cities to visit in France, yet we never had time to visit it although we’ve been to France so many times. I’ll have to make it a point to go there someday.
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I cannot think of any French city which is less than perfect. Can you?
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Lyon is such a chic city. I’ve heard the food scene there is amazing. It sad it is often forgotten on a France Itinerary.
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Travellers will always hunt out hidden gems 🙂
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I think Paris will always come first for me, but I agree that Lyon is very special. We visited last year (and we are French, should have visited a long time ago!). Really enjoyed the old town, the history dated back to the Roman and even before, and of course, the food! What’s not to like indeed!
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Going unprepared makes it even better!
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I’ve been so often to Paris but, funny enough, never in Lyon. However, after reading this article, I think on my next trip I give it a shot – it looks beautiful.
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Good idea…its not that far from Paris.
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Agree, Lyon is a special city, though Paris will always be my first love. It’s been a while since I visited Lyon and seeing your stunning photography makes me want to go back and visit again. Fortunately, I’ll be in France in the next two weeks and can certainly accommodate the stop!
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Even a couple of days should cut it…do make a stop next time, Rosemary.
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I love your night shots along the river — they are so beautiful. I sure wish our Lyon visit would have been as nice as this. Unfortunately, we only made a two-hour stop on a road-trip from one side of France to the other. We were hungry and needed to use restrooms, and it was pouring rain. Trying to find a public toilet and a fast-food type of place for lunch was miserable. I sure hope I get a chance to re-visit Lyon and really enjoy its beauty someday.
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I hope you get to enjoy Lyon for a longer time on your next visit to France…without the rains 🙂
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Great photos! Lyon sounds delightful. Staying close to the city center is a big plus because it means you can walk to all the attractions.
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And Lyon is thoroughly walkable…
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Oh, how I love your post. I so want to go to Lyon! I love how it looks like a mini Paris! I have pinned your post for future planning. Thanks so much for sharing.
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Thank you! Enjoy your travel to Lyon…
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I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Lyon yet. So interesting that it has the previous location of the guillotine during the war. Isn’t it just surreal to be standing in a place and trying to fathom and picture what went on there? The colorful buildings are stunning! I saw where you mentioned Rue Victor Huge…This sounds weird, but when I visit, I have to walk down that street as I am a HUGE Victor Hugo fan because I’m a huge Les Mis fan!
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I do that a lot…imagining the past and the atmosphere. Crowds or no crowds, it always works for me.
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Lyon is so beautiful and I am already in love with this place. The colourful building with greenery on one side are so Instagrammable. Your pictures are amazing as always. Surely gonna visit this place out soon.
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The entire city is lovely, but some spots are especially scenic.
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Fantastic pictures of a lovely city! It is always so fascinating to think about the amount of history that somewhere like Lyon has – like you mentioned, the beautiful, bustling square that was once the home of the guillotine. It makes for a rich cultural tapestry. Thanks for sharing your awesome experience with Lyon!
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Thanks so much! History makes a place come alive, doesn’t it? Lyon has a lot to offer.
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I’ve never been to either, but after reading your post I think I would prefer Lyon. How cute that Lyon has an Eiffel-clone. I would love to explore the ancient Roman ruins here and of course the chic shops.
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You may enjoy my other post on Lyon too. https://100cobbledroads.com/2016/12/22/one-perfect-day-in-the-beating-heart-of-lyon/
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I haven’t been to Lyon since I was a small child, when we went to see the paintings at the Beaux Arts. But I was right there with you today, with your keenly observed account of city life. I can smell the baguettes and beignets, hear the bustle of workers and shoppers, and spot those friends meeting at the fountain ( I had no idea of its connection with Lady Liberty). This is so beautifully atmospheric. And only three train rides away from home. A return visit is calling!
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Cities have their own corners of charm, it just needs extra patience to find those.
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Loving the ethos of Lyons. It does seem to have shades of Paris, but a unique aura all its own. The old world charm seems to be oozing out of every nook and corner of the city. Hope to visit Lyons when we are in France next. Apart from soaking in the charm of Lyons and its architecture, would love to head to Beaux Arts Museum and view the works of the masters.
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Lyon to Paris is a short train ride, it can fit very well into your itinerary.
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I was fortunate enough to visit Lyon a few years ago…unfortunately it wasn’t long enough! Your article makes me want to go back. I love the picture of the building with the “library” painted on the side – I saw a lot of those while we were there, and I love them!
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That 3-D library street art was a chance find. 🙂 Love those kind of gems.
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Lyon looks great! I hadn’t heard of it before this. The architecture looks beautiful I was excited to see you had nighttime photos of some of the buildings as well. I’ll have to add Lyon to my list!
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Night photography is a big tricky, isn’t it? And makes for a wonderful comparison with the buzz of the day time.
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Lovely post with beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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Thank you, Zeeshan! Glad you enjoyed the post.
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