A walking tour in Sultanahmet, Istanbul…
Hypnotic first glimpse of a one-of-a-kind city uniting the ‘chalk-and-cheese’ divergent continents of Europe and Asia. Spectacular skyline of cascading grey-blue domes and pencil-thin minarets of nearly 3,000 mosques. And the electric blue of the rough Bosphorus waters speckled with gliding seagulls. Born as Byzantium under Greek ruler Byzas (7th-century BC), renamed Constantinople by Roman Emperor Constantine for 1,100 years and reincarnated as seat of Ottoman Sultans’ mighty Muslim empire for 400 years…the culture cauldron in Turkey’s star city has enriched multifold with each glorious era in history. Melting pot, indeed!
The best way to experience Istanbul’s ancient spirit? A walking tour through its historical heart, Sultanahmet. Follow my league and choose Walks in Istanbul. (They operate in 10 different cities across Europe). Soak in the grace and grandeur of the Unesco Heritage Site with a 6-hour Highlights Tour or luxuriate in a 2-day marathon Grand Tour. Monumental mode on. Brace for impact!
Hagia Sofia: Divine wisdom for eternity
Stock up on history: Humble wooden church built by Constantine morphs into a glorious symbol of the Byzantine Empire, largest church in the world and religious focal point of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly 1000 years…courtesy 6th-century Roman Emperor Justinian I. Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II converts it into a mosque and adds Islamic features like mihrab and four outside minarets. Today as a museum, Hagia Sophia stands out as the most unique blend of Christian and Islamic cultures across the world.
Appreciate the architecture: Curious, even seemingly haphazard mix of shapes on the exterior facade disguise the inner brilliance. Classical basilica plan and stupendous dimensions. 336 columns supporting a grand vaulted brick roof. An imperfectly round (even unmanageably-sized) dome with a diameter of 100 feet, 180 feet high from the floor, supported by four huge piers. It succumbed to gravity twice…until Turkish star architect Sinan added massive buttresses in the 16th-century.
Drool over the art: Elegant low-hanging lamp-lit chandeliers in the main hall for fresh home decor goals. Marble and mosaics to dazzle the eye. Exquisite Ottoman floral designs and Quranic calligraphy for unblinking stares. And magnificent views of the central nave from the upper galleries for stunned silence.
Stumble upon secrets: Gold Byzantine mosaics which once lavishly studded the interior walls of the former church, now lie hidden under thick layers of Ottoman paint. Rare chipped, gleaming specimens peek through in the upper gallery and over the main gates.
The Blue Mosque: Soul of the city
Stock up on history: After the series of wars in the 17-century, 13-year old Sultan Ahmed I commissions one of the finest mosques in the heart of the imperial city, adjacent to Hagia Sophia. Wins not one, but three big brownie points. Reasserts Ottoman power. Matches legacy of great predecessors like Suleiman the Magnificent and Mehmet the Conqueror. And shows triumph of an Islamic monument over a converted Christian church. Sultan Ahmed Mosque or Blue Mosque (because of interior blue tiles) redefines the cityscape forever. Trump cards played right!
Appreciate the architecture: Five main domes, six slender minarets with delicate balconies, and eight secondary ascending domes. A large prayer hall crowned by the main dome and a spacious courtyard for late-comers and ablution fountain. Scale marries splendour with finesse in the classical period’s last great mosque.
Drool over the art: 260 lovely stained glass windows. And 21,000 blue Iznik tiles…a first in Imperial Ottoman mosque architecture for the time. Traditional motifs like cypress, tulips, roses and fruits. Linger…as long as you can.
Stumble upon secrets: The Sultan’s request for “altın minareler” (golden minarets), was misunderstood as “altı minareler” (six minarets). But Kaaba mosque had six minarets, so the Sultan ordered a 7th minaret to be added to the Mecca mosque. Squared up well!
Suleymaniye Mosque: Legacy of two Turkish icons
Stock up on history: The largest mosque in the city on a hilltop near Golden Horn is the legacy and final resting place of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. It is also architect Sinan’s most majestic masterpiece.
Appreciate the architecture: Islamic meets Byzantine in structure and design. Hagia Sofia inspirations appear in the shape of a 173-feet main dome, smaller domes, series of arches, decorative windows and buttresses. Ingenuity gleams through rails that allow the building flexibility to shift up to 5 degrees. The most important feature is acoustics, which Sinan perfected by placing hollow cubes at various points. 10 balconies on four minarets are a tribute to Suleyman, the 10th ruler of the Ottoman Empire.
Drool over the art: Inside arches with red-white stripes reminding of Muslim Spain. A giant low-hanging chandelier in the center of the mosque. Iznik tiles wrapped around the courtyard, displaying Ayat al-Kursi, a Quranic verse. And the soft blue-grey marble walls. Serenity now!
Stumble upon secrets: Sinan’s special screened windows trapped soot escaping from candles, which was converted into ink for calligraphers. Eco-friendly and recyclable!
Topkapi Palace: High drama, opulence and intrigue
Stock up on history: On a hilltop corner of the peninsula overlooking the Marmara Sea, Sultan Mehmet II builds an imperial residence at the site of the ancient acropolis of Byzantium. He names the 15th-century Topkapi after the huge victory cannons (‘top’). 25 sultans rule from here for four centuries, till they move to modern palace mansions along the Bosphorus.
Appreciate the architecture: 700,000 square meters of buildings, courtyards, gardens, fountains, pools, hospital, bakery, arsenal, mint, storage places, armoury, administrative areas and enormous kitchens serving over 6,000 meals a day for up to 5,000 residents. Digest that. Then get up-close-and-personal with quintessential Ottoman decor…harmony of exterior and interior spaces, elaborate domes, curving arches, decorative pillars, intricate murals, embossed ceilings and real treasures. Can’t get enough?
Drool over the art: Too much to list. Brilliant Iznik tiles in the Privy Chamber. Lovely light-and-shadow play in Baghdad Kiosk and Revan Kiosk. Topkapi dagger sheath studded with diamonds and four giant emeralds in the Armoury. Delft panels tiles and Murano glass mirrors in the Imperial Hall. The spectacle doesn’t ceases!
Stumble upon secrets: The Queen Mother ruled over the Harem, filled with hundreds of concubines (mostly non-Turkish slaves), protected by eunuchs. Think labyrinthine passageways, cloistered rooms, grand salons and intimate courtyards. Intrigue and conspiracy was rife in the Harem because Ottoman rule was not the first child’s birthright. Anyone could be Queen Bee! So till the 17th-century, all male relatives were killed after a favoured son was chosen to ascend the throne.
Basilica Cistern: Ancient subterranean marvel
Stock up on history: No fresh water sources in the city…Bosphorus and Marmara don’t quite cut it. Solution? Hundreds of underground stone-made cisterns. The largest of these, the Basilica Cistern built during the reign of Emperor Justinian I in 532 AD, is now a museum. Named after its location under the Stoa Basilica.
Appreciate the architecture: Unimaginable proportions…460-feet long, 230-feet wide. Cross-shaped vaults and 336 marble columns, each 30 feet high, holding up an arched roof. 13-feet thick wall insulated with waterproof mortar. 100,000 tons of water capacity, transported via aqueducts from the Belgrade Forest, 19 kilometers away. Classic Roman engineering, after all!
Drool over the art: Water cistern or spectacular subterranean temple 52 steps inside the earth? Yellow spotlights creating a mysterious red theme. Ionic and Corinthian columns, some bare, others with artistic carvings, mostly recycled from older buildings. If you’re lucky enough, you can attend a concert here. Atmosphere is everything.
Stumble upon secrets: Two heads of Medusa, a female underworld Greek mythological monster, form bases for two columns. Legend says the heads were oriented sideways and upside-down to counter the power of Medusa’s direct deadly gaze. The more likely, plausible reason? Better balance and fit. Whatever appeals to you more…
Slip into living heritage
Glamorous galleries of the royal palace. Hallowed interiors of gigantic religious structures. Overwhelmed much? Shift gears dramatically. Lose yourself in the labyrinth of 61 covered streets and 4,000 shops of the Grand Bazaar. A cornucopia of aromas, flavours, sounds, colours and textures…time travel to 15-century Istanbul!Hush! Did a Topkapi guard just gallop by?
We experienced the true spirit of Sultanahmet as guests of Walks in Istanbul over a fascinating six-hour walking tour, with expert guide Duygu, local resident, history buff and die-hard vegetarian. All opinions are my own.
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100cobbledroads.com 
O wow…WOW post indeed. Yes, I am indeed drooling over the art, murals, the architecture, splash of colours and the great amount of meticulousness that has gone into planning and executing these structures. Those paintings and ceilings are pure love and salute to those underground workaround for water!
And, your captures are the perfect caramel sauce on a chocolate cake. Cherries are so clićhe..you see!
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Architecture-lovers can go crazy in this city…that is certain. People often spend 2-3 days in Istanbul, but i think it deserves much more time. We had a week, but it wasn’t enough.
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I think Istanbul is one of the gorgeous and good place to visit. I don’t easily believe on bad news online, especially to only promote bad propaganda against the city.
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That bit is in the past. Istanbul is back to normal, in every way.
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Istanbul looks amazing! I’m a big lover of architecture and Topkapi Palance is absolutely beautiful, what a treat to visit. Hopefully, we will get there one day. How did you find the souks, did you get a lot of staring as a woman?
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You will love every inch of the city. The Souks are called Bazaars in Turkey and they are fun to explore. No staring…Turkey is as European as it is Asian 🙂
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I can’t wait to one day visit Istanbul! The architecture is just so amazing and detailed. I’m sure I’ll wander for hours when I’m there. The Basilica Cistern also looks really interesting. I’m sure the acoustics there are perfect for concerts!
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If architecture is your thing, Istanbul will truly weave its spell on you.
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I can’t wait to visit Istanbul and these photos prove just how beautiful it is there. Hagia Sophia is top of my list. So beautiful
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You will love this city! And Hagia Sofia will steal your heart.
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Istanbul is one of my favourite cities and I totally agree with your choices of top places to visit. Topkapi Palace is particularly intriguing, especially if you have a guide that can recount tales of the past.
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These are the popular sights…and I enjoyed them all. But there were tons of other things that kept me hooked in Istanbul…will be writing more posts on those.
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You know, I’ve always been torn about Istanbul but your post really makes me want to visit. I mean, markets, beautiful buildings and boat rides… what’s not to love?
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There were so many elements besides the big monuments that i loved. More posts coming up on those…
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Your photos are amazing. It totally inspires me to want to visit Istanbul one day.
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Thank you so much. And I have used just a fraction of them. Istanbul is a haven for photographers.
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You’ve listed my top favourite places in Istanbul. I loved the Blue Mosque both in terms of its architecture and interiors. It lights up so beautifully at night, I couldn’t stop taking pictures of it! Also, Topkapi Palace was gorgeous and the views from its terrace were amazing. Hagia Sophia’s history intrigued me, the fact that over a period of time, it has been used both by Islamic and Christian people as a place of worship and still maintains scripts from both religions. I love Istanbul!
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Hagia Sofia was my fave of them all, and I would have liked to study many other smaller monuments, but time was a constraint. Istanbul is a special place.
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Failed to see the Basilica Cistern when I was there ages ago!
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Istanbul is one of my favorite places and I think your pictures in this post did it justice! The Blue Mosque was my favorite–I could have spent an entire day there taking in everything. I didn’t get to visit the Suleymaniye Mosque, but I definitely plan to do so on my next visit. I love that you include visiting the Grand Bazaar, too!
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The Blue Mosque was under renovation, but whatever we could see of it, blew us away. So did all the other mega monuments.
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Istanbul is on my bucket list, and you have just put it on top of the bucket for me. A walking tour would be the perfect way to soak in all that history and gorgeous architecture.
I think I would go shopping crazy at the Grand Bazaar. 61 covered streets! That is incredible.
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The Grand Bazaar would really fascinate you!
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I first learn about Istanbul in the movie Taken. It was one of the gorgeous city with lovely sunset and rooftops! I wish to visit and enjoy their local cuisine.
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Istanbul is such a unique city. And there’s so much to it…can keep one busy for days.
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Truly, a world of art. Anywhere you look there is a piece of art and design. HEaven for art and architecture loves. Istanbul was supposed to be one of the countries we’re planned to visit this year but sadly didn’t pursue so hopefully next year! All of these arts are indeed stunning, plus the chandeliers!
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The way different art and architectural styles merge in Istanbul can leave one breathless. Hope you go soon..
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The mosques are gorgeous! I am absolutely in love with Istanbul’s gorgeous art and architecture. I would love to visit the area that has the low-hanging lamp-lit chandeliers. The photo was gorgeous so I can imagine it’s even better in person.
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It was certainly a million times better in person. The magnitude and grandeur cannot be conveyed in pictures.
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I’m all about walking tours and Istanbul has fascinated me since I was a little girl. There is so much history in the city that I’d love to learn about and see. Six hours does seem like a long walking tour tho. How did you feel at the end of the day?
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Six hours just flew by! And to answer your question, it was a fulfilling day.
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I have been to Istanbul some years ago and reading your post was just like a small return to the most stunning Turskish City. I see you expored the same places…I loved the Topkapi Palace and all various mosques. Istanbul is such an amazing city!
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The walking tour in Sultanahmet was spellbinding but we also loved other areas of Istanbul. Will be covering those in other posts soon.
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I am such a fan of history, architecture and art, so this view of Istanbul was amazing. It is not often that people capture the beautiful artwork in the mosques. I appreciated seeing the remnants of Christian art in the Hagia Sophia. I really also enjoyed seeing the tour underground through the basillica. Even the underground cistern is a work of art.
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I love capturing details of fine artwork inside monuments and Istanbul was a great canvas.
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I haven’t visited Turkey yet but I really want to and my favorite way to experience a city is walking! The Hagia Sofia is on my bucket list-that dome is absolutely gorgeous! Haven’t heard of the Blue Mosque. Will have to check that out when I go. Those mosaics are just wow!! Whew, there was definitely some high drama at the Topkapi Palace-interesting that anyone could be Queen Bee!
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Istanbul’s history, culture, art and cuisine…all are spectacular and colorful. A great city and a great destination.
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Just wow! That architecture looks absolutely stunning. I’ve always wanted to visit Istanbul, it’s such a historically rich and fascinating city. I love a good walking tour as well so will be sure to check this one out when I do visit. Also the Grand Bazaar is my kind of place, I love finding little gems. Thanks for all the great info and beautiful pictures.
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And we went back to the monuments the second time after the walking tour just for photography.
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I’m fascinated by this. From the hollow cubes to address the acoustics to the misunderstanding about the number and decoration of minarets, your narrative adds so much to the beautiful pictures. Interesting to see how far the beauty of Delft spread too; I remember seeing Delft stoves in Catherine’s Palace in St Petersburg and it’s good to see that artistry again on show in a completely different setting. I think I’d feel totally intoxicated by the beauty of this walk.
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Thanks a million, Bernie. Architecture and art teach so much about about the culture of a place…that’s always top of our agenda when we travel. Nice to know that we share a common interest. And I would love to see those Delft stoves in St Petersburg.
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First of all I have to admit your photos are really beautiful. I love Istanbul and seeing its heritage is a worth experience. Thank for your overview and all the useful tips for newcommers
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Thank you so much, Anita 🙂 A few days in the city seem too little to absorb so much rich history.
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Turkey is such a fascinating place, with its constant religious and political tensions. And Istanbul definitely portrays that, with both amazing churches and mosques so close to each other! I’d love to visit the Hagia Sophia, and one of those underground cisterns! So neat!
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A week didn’t seem enough! Would need to go back for more.
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Istanbul is such a beautiful and one of a kind place! I love how much thought and effort they place into all of their architecture. Thank you for sharing.
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The architecture is definitely quite dramatic!
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Istanbul for me somehow always conjures up images straight out of Arabian Nights. It is so much of a cultural melting pot. The Blue Mosque, of course, towers over the city in all respects, but there is so much to explore in the lanes and bylanes of the city. It is indeed a sheer visual delight and a living museum of art and architecture. Top Kapi palace is another place that mesmerizes with its opulence.
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Its quite magical, isn’t it? Did you explore the Bosphorus?
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WoW Absolutely stunning. Istanbul is definitely on my bucket list of places to go 🙂
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You will enjoy it thoroughly.
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Such a wonderfully written post about Istanbul. The art and architecture of this city is really mesmerising. Such a vibrant city with a rich history and cultural diversity. I’ve mentioned it before too, your writing style is really good.
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Thanks a million Tamshuk! Istanbul was quite an inspiration!
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