Witness pure Bohemian spirit at Cesky Krumlov…
No better place to kick start your Czech Republic trip than with the most delicious slice of the Bohemian region, Cesky Krumlov. And no better timing than autumn, when this fairyland is wrapped in cozy folds of russets, auburn, ambers and cornelians. But fall brings colours to more than just the foliage. You have barely taken the first few steps onto the cobbled roads, and you can sense the festivities in the air. St.Wenceslas Festival is painting the town red!
28th September, the day that St. Wenceslas, patron saint of Czech lands, brewers and winemakers was murdered by his brother, marks Feast Day on the country’s calendar. Expect traditional food, drink, merriment, entertainment and cultural performances. So dump that luggage, blend into the colourful trail and join the euphoria. Doing a little jig already, aren’t you?
Music wafting from the Seminární Zahrada (Seminar Garden) pulls you irresistibly. A bunch of girls dressed in vibrant layered skirts, glittering belly chains and gypsy head scarves hold the audience transfixed with their enthusiastic dance presentation. The star of the show is the little boy in a lemon shirt, candy pink necktie and a set of waist chains. They’re dancing like nobody’s watching. Treasured intangible heritage passed down generations and inculcated with much pride. Sway along with their uninhibited whirls, and if you can tear your hypnotised eyes away momentarily, just look at that view!
Back on the narrow street, the swarm of revellers thickens gradually until the space opens up dramatically into the lively town square, Namesti Svornosti. Here the tempo reaches its crescendo. Invisible wisps of the carnival spirit are everywhere…floating over the pastel gabled houses, wafting from the aromatic food grills, brightening the smiles of the artisans showcasing local crafts, sweets, wines and coating the cheerful faces of the red-and-white gingerbread hearts.
The stage is set. Steal a peek backstage and spot the performers queued up in elaborate, traditional Czech costumes. Bright colors, lavish embroideries, heavy accessories. Delicate flowers and satiny ribbons adorning elaborate hairdos. Pretty tasselled capes and fine lace-edged aprons. Lovely string corsets and extravagant buckle belts. Rich, heavy coats embellished with gold buttons, fancy braid and silk scarfs. Voluminous skirts, red stockinged feet, woollen pants and heavy boots. Styles distinctive to each region or even village, travelling down from generation to generation. Life-sized dolls in national costumes.
You’re hooked for hours, along with the rest of the jamboree. Perfectly synchronised group dance performances continue into the night, accompanied by cheerful, foot-tapping music by the live band. Girls shout ‘Eeyaahhh’ in abandon and boys whistle merrily. The expressions are joyful, the atmosphere is overflowing with high spirits and the mood is celebratory. Its high energy fun and frolic all the way…jumping, springing, bouncing, hopping, stomping, skipping, all the verbs you can possibly muster. Ladies are being skilfully whirled into the air. Men are bouncing like rubber balls. And a lot of lively chain dancing is pumping up the crowds. Are you reminded of fast-paced, jumpy polka dance (from Czech word ‘půlka’, meaning ‘half’)? Not surprising. It originated in Bohemia before spreading to ballrooms of the world in the 19th century.
Standing there in the shadowy gala silhouette, contemplate on the deeply rooted music of the South-west Bohemian region. The steady rhythm of the violin and double bass and the effervescent beats of the bagpipes and trumpet are now filling your very core. That’s the power folk music has always had…as a universal medium for the community to express emotions and vent feelings during mournful occasions, celebratory events, feasts, onset of spring, successful harvest, or even addressing public issues. A unique oral tradition living on through the common people…helping recount ordinary stories and preserve history through the ages. Pure, unadulterated doses of culture. So give in to the infectious spirit. Drop your guard. Toss that head. Shake a leg. Hum along. You’re in Bohemia.
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100cobbledroads.com 
This looks so cool, I love folklore and festivals like this! There is so much colour and I hope the food was good! I would like to experience this too 🙂
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The spirits were so high, it was uplifting.
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I love seeing local people in their native dresses or costumes. A colorful setting has the power to uplift one’s energy. Celebrating with the locals and visitors in festivals like these is always a hit for me. 🙂
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You are so right about the colors and costumes. But more than that, it is the energy and high spirits.
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Cesky Krumlov is one of the most amazing parts of the Czech Repuplic! I didn’t know about the Wenceslas festival, but now we might think of planning a trip over there next September, especially if there are cultural performances!
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That would be great. The festival happens in end of September.
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I would love to visit Cesky Krumlov, and this festival looks like a great time to experience local culture! I love all the colour and I can practically hear the music while looking at your photos.
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That is such a lovely comment. I did have a few videos but haven’t uploaded them. The music was amazing.
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I have been to the Czech Republic a few times now but never to Cesky Krumlov – it looks fab and I’d really enjoy seeing all the folk dancing. Great timing too – September is what I am planning right now and this might well be on the itinerary!
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September would be so perfect, as the colors are unparalleled too.
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Thank you for introducing a side of Czech Republic that I never knew before. I have only been to Prague couple of times. The murder story sounds very interesting and quite surprised to see that it gave rise to such a festive event!
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I know, the murder angle is surprising. But nice that they choose to celebrate rather than mourn it.
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Love it. Great story telling and photos. I would love to go back to Czech at this time of year – only went in snowy December. The glittering belly chains the girls dancing are wearing look very Arabic. What a mix of cultures.
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Thank you so much, Karen! Yes, I found the Arabic touch very fascinating too.
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Been to the Czech Republic a few times but never seen a folklore festival like that, looks fantastic, thanks for sharing!
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It was a special experience, so immersive.
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I have been to Czech Republic a few times but never heard of this festival. But then again, I haven’t been to Cesky Krumlov yet but would totally love to go there and check out the folk dancing. There is something about dancing in Central and Eastern Europe and I can’t put my finger on it.
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I think what is special about dancing in Central and Eastern Europe is the liveliness.
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Well I didn’t know that Polka originated here! I was in Cesky Krumlov a few weeks ago, and I loved it! It is such a pretty town but it was relatively quiet (apart from big tour groups) so to see it when a local festival is on would be totally different!
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We saw the contrast between the day crowds and the evening silences. Both had their own charm.
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You have me missing the Czech Republic now. I’ve only been to Prague, so I’ll definitely need to visit Cesky Krumlov for the Wenceslas Festival. I had completely forgotten that he was murdered by his brother. Such a sad story!
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The story may be sad, but the celebrations in his memory are joyous. And that’s what one can be a part of. 🙂
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What a colorful funfilled event! I love seeing local people in their festive costumes. May be you can participate too right? You got some great pictures of the locals there.
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These were staged group performances, but the lively music makes you want to dance along. 🙂
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What a great festival to be part of. I love seeing local traditions and costumes, so the St Wenceslas festival sounds perfect for that! The vibe in the Namesti Svornosti square must have been exhilarating with all those revellers. Thanks for this intro to Cesky Krumlov – I really must visit soon!
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Cesky Krumlov has so much to intrigue visitors on its own, but the festival added an extra zing.
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Even though places are at their most crowded during festivals, sometimes it really is the best time to visit. You get such different feel about a place than on just any other day. The traditional costumes are really beautiful and it sounds like the music, food and fun make for a really enjoyable time.
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The crowds are a part of festivals and one especially enjoys being part of communities during these times.
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I’ve only been to Prague, but I would love to see more of the Czech Republic and Cesky Krumlov and Brno are on my list. I visited Prague during the Spring festivals and although it was busy it gave such a buzzy atmosphere which you’ve captured with the Weceslas festival. I love seeing all the awesome traditional dress and experiencing the market!
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Czech is a lovely country and Cesky Krumlov is one of its most sparkly gems. The festival was the icing on the cake.
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My family would love this event! We love anything that celebrates culture and diversity, and this is such a beautiful array of foods and colors and fun. I love that tradition is honored with such passion and love with this, you couldn’t help but get caught up in it all!
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It was a coincidence, but our dates turned out to be perfect to catch the festivities.
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The costumes, traditional food, and dance look so wonderful. I love seeing countries’ traditional garb. I also love outdoor markets and some of those treats look really tasty! Thanks for sharing.
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Festivals are great occasions to immerse in the local feel.
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I love festivals like this where you get to experience a country’s culture and history. Do you know why St. Wenceslas’s brother murdered him?
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Greed of succession, Marteen. Same old story everywhere in history 🙂
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Of course!
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