Unearth an abandoned neighbourhood in Gujarat
I shouldn’t have gone googling when the guide asked me, “Would you like to see the wooden mansions of Sidhpur?” It killed the surprise. Or maybe I should have. Because it would have been a huge mistake to skip it. Pick from various good hotels in Ahmedabad to stay, and drive 112 km away to this ancient city of north Gujarat, believed to be located at the junction of the rivers Ganga and Saraswati.
Whoa! Brace for impact
At first glance, its just a remote Indian town untouched by modernisation, but hold your breath till you reach the Dawoodi Bohras neighbourhood. And exhale. Pinch yourself. Rub your eyes. Still there! A broad lane filled with majestic mansions on both sides. Defying all possible expectations. Not because they’re mansions, but because they’re distinctly European in appearance. In the whole range of soft pastels…lime green, pale pink, lilac, salmon, peach, mint green and lemon. You might as well be standing in one of the streets of Karlovy Vary in Czech Republic. But this is a dusty little town in one of the most traditional regions of Western India! And not a soul in sight.
There’s lane after lane of such houses, all standing abandoned. Is this a dream? A movie set left behind? Or a ghost town evacuated after a mysterious disaster? Hold your horses. The reality isn’t even remotely fantastic. Apparently, the properties were built by a prosperous community of Bohras, (Shia Muslim traders), who migrated from Yemen in the 18th century. Influenced by the good life in Europe? Without a trace of doubt.
European by character…
Once you’ve steadied yourself from the initial dizziness, venture closer and fuel your heightening curiosity further. Order, homogeneity, symmetry, precision…all the essentials features of a predominantly European character meet your gaze unflinchingly. Gaze back with deeper, microscopic vision and decipher the code…similar shape, similar material, similar design. As if all houses were commissioned to the same architect, who used just one common, basic blueprint. Or were all of them clones of the first one? If they were all washed in the same colour, it would appear to be one giant condominium. Its an incredible mix of architectural styles, varying from Gothic to Art Nouveau to Art Deco exhibited through every extravagant aspect possible. Stuccoed facades, ornate columns, trellised balconies, gabled roofs, elaborate brackets, grandiose banisters, flamboyant door mouldings, decorative grills and stained glass windows. All empty! Unreal.
…but not in spirit
The character is outwardly European, but there’s a very local spirit within. The most obvious one that strikes you is the Gujarati tradition of using wood as building material. But with an unusual, reinvented aesthetic expression. Extensive use of geometric patterns and an abundance of nature motifs like flower and creepers to adorn doors and windows, in keeping with Islamic convention. The human and animal figures that are a quintessential part of Indian design vocabulary are conspicuously absent. Every house has an intricate monogram in English representing initials of the owner! Could you think of a more impressive display for your nameplate?
Inside, the soul of Indian havelis (mansions) reveals itself in its full glory. The central open courtyard constructed to allow light and air, richly embellished windows designed to resemble portrait frames, and demarcated living spaces for men and women, show how seamlessly outward character and inner spirit can be blended into a unified whole.
Dying heritage
The empty, forgotten lanes of Sidhpur are an example of hundreds of living traditions that are slowly dying a slow death. What must have been a modern, classy, upmarket neighbourhood 200 years back, is now a picture of neglect and sure signs of deterioration is already visible in the peeling paint, broken window panes, and cracking wood surfaces. Its not entirely impossible that dismantling and reselling of decorative elements has already begun. Locals of Sidhpur are baffled that visitors come to see these derelict, creepy Bohra mansions. What’s to see, they wonder.
As you leave the area, you can’t help but pause by the biggest, grandest house of them all. The distinctness of its structure and appearance makes you stare for a long, long time. Soft sun rays hit some of the 365 windows that speckle the grit-blackened facade of the corner villa. Suddenly, all the pretty colours that you had been admiring in those lanes seem dull and drab against this black-and-white drama. Beware! The vintage beauty of this phantom house may haunt you in your dreams tonight.
Pin this post for later!!
very interesting …..thank you …
LikeLiked by 1 person
Glad you liked the post!
LikeLike
I’ve been there several times and our family is originally from Sidhpur.
It’s truly an amazing historic place with maybe a third of the houses locked up and used only occasionally. The material used is the finest the world possessed 150 years ago. It’s wealth cam from traders who made their wealth from east africa, Yemen and other trading parts of the British empire. It always was a dormitory town. The men worked abroad (in partnership with fellow sidhpuris) and took turns coming back to Sidhpur and raising families…. then some of them one day they called their families and left to their work abode.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Wow, Taizoon, you are part of a fabulous legacy! Such a fascinating place Sidhpur is. It was so great to know about how the residents took turns in coming back and raising families. Thanks for sharing your side of the story.
LikeLike
Wow, that is a sight! Definitely European influenced but with an Indian flair. I like it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Glad you enjoyed the read.
LikeLike
I love the comparison picture to Karlovy Vary. I shows the architectural style, but also your later points about how the Sidhpur Mansions are very monotonic, while the Karlovv mansions vary in color from one to the next. This is one of those fascinating oddities that you see when traveling the world. There are a few American housing divisions that are made to look Tudor in their architecture, but I have seen nothing to this scale or precision.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sidhpur is so special because just this one neighbourhood stands out from the rest of the typically Indian style of the town.
LikeLike
Travelling through India is a special experience. We haven’t been to Gujurat on either of our trips there, but would definitely like to. Finding places like Dawoodi Bohras makes a trip so special. Thanks for sharing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Gujarat is a stunner! In so many different ways.
LikeLike
Wow! As a true fan of India, I have to say that I had no idea about this place. It looks impressive. And I also didn’t know that the traditional style of building in Gujarat is with wood. Gujarat is on my must-see list for sure!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Gujarat has enough impressive heritage and history to knock anyone off their feet!
LikeLike
Lovely post! The pictures tell a beautiful story. Your descriptions, history and comparisons to European architecture added more depth to the post. Thank you or sharing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks a ton! Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂
LikeLike
Nope I’d never heard about them! And you’re right that they look almost out of place over there, even if it’s a bit spooky if you think about it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I wonder how the place seems at night!
LikeLike
Wow this reminds me so much of the Rampuria havelis in Bikaner. The deigns are terrific and so are the colors. It is a good mix of Indian elements and European style.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Imagine houses like these on streets in the middle of Bikaner. The rest of the town is a traditional remote Indian town. So weird.
LikeLike
Stunning! I had no idea this existed! What a crazy place to stand abandoned, the homes are gorgeous! India is always full of new and crazy delights. Thanks for sharing, my wife and I will add this to our India travel list!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It seems like this area doesn’t even belong there.
LikeLike
You’re right! It looks like an abandoned ghost town!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Really strange place.
LikeLiked by 1 person
First off, to answer your question, no I hadn’t heard of these mysterious mansions! The fact that they are made of wood is really intriguing. They are utterly gorgeous, all those pastels in the bright sunshine. It’s sad that they are empty and forlorn. I can’t imagine someone wouldn’t want to live in them, but perhaps the cost is too great?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, the cost of repair and maintenance is too high and like all other old parts of the medieval towns which are being vacated in favour of modern neighourhoods, this one too has met its fate.
LikeLike
In answer to your questions, I have not heard of the mysterious mansions of Sidhpur – thanks for introducing me! But wow, it definitely looks like you’ve stepped into Europe here. And they all look very extravagant – I can’t believe no-one lives here! Despite its European character though it’s good to know that there is a local soul within. So sad though how what was once such a modern and classy neighborhood can be left to total neglect. That said, I do find abandoned towns and buildings so fascinating.
LikeLiked by 1 person
The weirdest part is that two steps away from this neighbourhood is a traditional, typically Indian part of the town. Its bizarre.
LikeLike
Wow! What an awesome find! So unexpected. I don’t understand why they are abandoned. Made me giggle that locals wonder why visitors are drawn to them
LikeLiked by 2 people
They actually look at you with strange expressions when you walk along the streets…as if saying “what ISSSSS she upto?”
LikeLike
So what happened to the Yemeni traders? How come those magnificent houses are left untouched rather than have seen others move in? So many questions!
I am currently sitting in a hotel in Sri Lanka and some of the elements along the roofs actually remind me of what I am seeing around me. So there seems to be a common style connecting communities around the World.
Thank you for sharing this find!
Happy continued travels,
C
LikeLiked by 1 person
The traders moved away to greener pastures 🙂 And the poor houses are just sitting there waiting…
LikeLike
There is a factual error about the origin of the owners
The seat of Fatimid Ismaili faith did come to India from Yemen in the 16th-17th century but the faith itself has been in India since the 11th century when the fatimids ruled egypt.
Most of the followers – the Bohras are local Indians who entered the faith with some yemeni and egyptian blood intermingled.
Also the mansions are not abondened. Yes they may be neglected as the owners have left for greener pastures in metros and foreign shores when Siddhapur which was once the capital of Gujarat and a powerful kingdom lost its sheen over time.
The newer generations of owners are not interested in returning to Siddhapur but do have a connection with their native place. They are not ready to incur the huge costs these mansions demand to regain their past glory but if you see the condition most of them are still habitable.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, Zoher, for sharing your insights about the origin of the Bohra community. It has helped to piece together the missing information. Like all old towns of the world, the challenges related to their maintenance and upkeep of this heritage neighbourhood must be tremendous, despite all the love that the owners have for their roots. The fact remains that many of these gorgeous homes are not occupied. Deeply appreciate your inputs. Thanks so much.
LikeLike
I love that you compare the colours with Karlovy Vary. You’re right! What an extraordinary find with a fascinating history. I, too, want to know the story of why these stunning mansions are deserted. I do hope they get restored. Tell us more.
LikeLiked by 1 person
The story is simple. As I mentioned, the owners who were rich tradesmen moved away to more prosperous areas. 🙂
LikeLike
Lovely photographs, the style reminds me a big of the south of Vienna. It’s saddening to see such beautiful constructions fall to disrepair. There’s something very haunting about these images!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Since this is a remote town, chances of these mansions being inhabited again are even more slim.
LikeLike
I hadn’t heard of these gorgeous mansions, but they definitely look worth the visit. I hope that they eventually are restored because they’re just so beautiful. Thanks for sharing a unique spot!
LikeLiked by 1 person
There must be hundreds of them! Its so unusual.
LikeLike
Wow these houses look amazing. Very European-esque like you said and so so colourful and intricate. I would have loved to see these on my recent trip to India. I’ve never heard of Sidhpur but I’ll definitely remember it now. So cool.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was a last minute addition to our itinerary and I’m so glad we included it.
LikeLike
What a unique and cool place! I’ve never heard of it. But you’re right, it does remind me a lot of Europe. The style, the colours, it’s really quite beautiful but I’d like to see it fixed back up, right? It’s charming in its own way though!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Its an abandoned neighbourhood, but so well maintained!
LikeLike
Love all the details on the old buildings! This town looks like it is oozing with character – will have to visit once we make it to India!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sidhpur is actually an ancient pilgrimage town. Very interesting place to visit.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a find! I can clearly see the similarity with the European architecture here. And then there are the local touches like the carvings that you called out. I would definitely like to visit these streets of Sidhpur and look at these unique buildings on my own. Overall, it looks beautiful, and that is what is important. Did you happen to visit the inside of any of these houses?
LikeLiked by 1 person
We did peep into a couple of houses, but majority are locked up, as I mentioned.
LikeLike
Wow, what a unique place! I don’t think I would have ever known about it if I hadn’t read your blog.
It looks like such a cool place to explore. I’m surprised the mansions all remain empty still.
Definitely pinning this for a future trip to India 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Not many people know about Sidhpur.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a beautiful piece of architecture! They are all beautifully built! I really love the pastel colors of the buildings, indeed lovely and so pleasant in my eyes. I hope they will be maintained well to preserve it’s own unique beauty. Thanks for sharing this post!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Let’s hope they are maintained this way.
LikeLike
The Dawoodi Bohras neighbourhood is incredible! The architecture is truly stunning and I totally lovely the colours, even the slight fade to them is just beautiful and evocative. I hope they are maintained and restored. You were right about bracing for impact, I didn’t expect this! A hidden treasure that’s for sure.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I was glad we drove 4 hours to see it.
LikeLike
What a wonderful find! I didn’t expect to see this. The buildings are beautiful… Would love to see inside one 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Totally unexpected!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m mesmerised by the heritage of this place. Like you said it hasn’t been midernised. Pity some of the buildings have deteriorated.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I couldn’t believe my eyes when I got there first.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Is it totally abandoned? Because I saw curtains in one picture. And what’s the reason to leave the city dying? I like history and when you said it’s in Gujarat, I remember it’s traders from Gujarat that brought Moslem to Indonesia in the 13th century.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Very few houses are occupied. Yes, you’re right about the Gujarat traders there.
LikeLike
No, I have not heard of them 🙂 but they look beautiful. It actually reminds me of the Wild West for some reason. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wild West, hmmm.. That’s a thought 🙂
LikeLike
Goodness me! The Bohras neighborhood is totally instagrammable with all those different shades of pastels! Why on earth is this place abandoned? I’d love to make it out here one day. Holding thumbs that someone restores them to their original beauty!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Who knows…maybe the wish will come true.
LikeLike
What an amazing find! So interesting to see different cultures mesh together to create something amazing like this. Definitely pinned this post to make sure I don’t miss visiting this place on my next trip!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is rather special. Hope you go.
LikeLike
What an incredible looking place! I cannot believe it is abandoned!!! What a shame that pieces would be take from here and sold. Why not take care of the place and make something of it?! Looks so unreal! I think it should be a protected site and more people should visit! Also, it’s super “Instagram Worthy” LOL
LikeLiked by 1 person
I couldn’t agree more. Hopefully…
LikeLike
I feel sad that after having lived for years in Ahmedabad, never visited Siddhpur. In fact it is only in recent years I have been hearing of these fascinating mansions that lie empty today, a silent comma in the passage of history. In fact recently I met someone who told me that her family owned one of these mansions and they all used to meet up there once in 5 years or so. So fascinating.
LikeLiked by 1 person
At first glance, the sight of the mansions really stunned me into silence. Amazing.
LikeLike
So nice, wonderful read!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much! Glad you liked it. 🙂
LikeLike
All owner of this mansions stays in other parts of the country as they all are businessmen. They do open this mansion on special occasions such as wedding in their family member or visit of HIS HOLINESS to Sidhpur or family get together.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Do you have a family mansion there too?
LikeLike
Hi,
I am an Sidhpuri…we also have a house in one of the lanes but a bit different from these. My father along with my Grandfather took great pride in constructing our home which belonged to the entire extended family. Till he was alive he also took great care of it and now, we all his children and children of the extended family are not able to take care of it coz all are so busy with their lives and no one has the time, money or energy to look after it…very soon it will be up for sale. It’s so sad that the glory of the past will be dust off the future..
LikeLiked by 1 person
Rashida, thanks for taking time to comment on this post. Lucky you, to have one of these heritage mansions for an ancestral home. As travellers and admirers of such beauty, we can only partake in their glory from a distance. I’m sure you have lovely memories of spending family time here.
LikeLike
Siddhpur – Concern For Siddhpur an organisation started by few Siddhpurites about 5 years ago are working towards reviving Siddhpur and bringing to its original glory.
An Exhibition by the name of Siddhpur and the Dawoodi Bohras has played an important part in showcasing the true face of Siddhpur. The Totana Park(5 Bungalows in Siddhpur)are worth a visit
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is wonderful to know that there is an organization working towards preserving this neighbourhood which overflows with character. How many people are involved and how are you funding the program?
LikeLike
Yes I too am from Sidhpur and my family owns one of these houses
Sad most of these houses are locked,their owners having left for cities,leaving these mansions in a state of neglect.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Interesting to learn that, Yusuf. Do you visit it from time to time?
LikeLike
Been there a few years ago. Stayed in one of the largest house there, waugh family. The woodwork, the decorations are so beautiful. Took so many photos. As an architect it was painful to see only a few windows open. The rest housed all shuttered and used by the birds.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Architecture buffs like us are affected much more than others, don’t you agree?! What an experience to stay in one of those mansions!!
LikeLike
Been there for a wedding. Do not miss the large hall there, its huge and with wooden columns
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lovely article and photos. Mostly have plan to visit that and Ranki vaav near that next month.
LikeLiked by 1 person
You will enjoy photographing these places.
LikeLike
Hi
I am native of Sidhpur and my family owns a house similar to the ones in the pictures. My story is similar to the few other Sidhpuris who have commented, wherein our grandfather/great grandfather constructed the house for all to live in and subsequent generations have moved to different cities for better business. We used to come back to Sidhpur for weddings in the family, although it has been quite some time since I have been there.
Inside most of the houses are ornately carved wooden furniture and staircases, etched or painted frosted glass work, intricate floral patterns on the ceilings, mosaic floors and rolled up carpets!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is wonderful to know that you have a heritage connect to Sidhpur. You must be so proud!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wow, I’ve just come across your post and these buildings remind me slightly of the old shop houses in Singapore.Ive now put it on my list for things to see in India this year. I was looking for something old and unique and this is it, very different to other places I’ve visited in India. Thanks for sharing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sidhpur is really fascinating. If you get a chance to visit Gujarat in India, do try to include this town in your itinerary.
LikeLike
wish someone turn it into boutique hotel!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s quite an idea…
LikeLike
My mother is from sidhpur. As a child I used to go there every year in my school years. Our house was near these mansions. As a little kid I used to wonder why these houses are build to differently from others. Anyways now going there after 5 yeras. Will see those mansions again.
LikeLiked by 1 person
The heritage appeal of Sidhpur is barely known, but so worth preserving.
LikeLike
I was born and bought up in sidhpur and i am glad that you took so beautiful pictures of our homes.our homes connected to each other..Thank you so very much
LikeLike
Hi, just read your article. Lovely piece! Covers a great deal of what Sidhpur is. Sidhpur is my native, my ancestral home is there, so I am extremely familiar with the place. Every vacation our parents would take us there, to enjoy the winters while we had the best Masala Soda with an abundance of ice cubes dancing in the tall glasses.
The 300+ windows house is a relatives. My grandmother’s brother had made and gifted the house to his daughter. It is beautiful place.
LikeLike