Have you heard of the mysterious mansions of Sidhpur?

Published on by 100cobbledroads

Unearth an abandoned neighbourhood in Gujarat

I shouldn’t have gone googling when the guide asked me, “Would you like to see the wooden mansions of Sidhpur?” It killed the surprise. Or maybe I should have. Because it would have been a huge mistake to skip it. Pick from various good hotels in Ahmedabad to stay, and drive 112 km away to this ancient city of north Gujarat, believed to be located at the junction of the rivers Ganga and Saraswati.

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Whoa! Brace for impact

At first glance, its just a remote Indian town untouched by modernisation, but hold your breath till you reach the Dawoodi Bohras neighbourhood. And exhale. Pinch yourself. Rub your eyes. Still there! A broad lane filled with majestic mansions on both sides. Defying all possible expectations. Not because they’re mansions, but because they’re distinctly European in appearance. In the whole range of soft pastels…lime green, pale pink, lilac, salmon, peach, mint green and lemon. You might as well be standing in one of the streets of Karlovy Vary in Czech Republic. But this is a dusty little town in one of the most traditional regions of Western India! And not a soul in sight.

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Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic

There’s lane after lane of such houses, all standing abandoned. Is this a dream? A movie set left behind? Or a ghost town evacuated after a mysterious disaster? Hold your horses. The reality isn’t even remotely fantastic. Apparently, the properties were built by a prosperous community of Bohras, (Shia Muslim traders), who migrated from Yemen in the 18th century. Influenced by the good life in Europe? Without a trace of doubt.

European by character…

Once you’ve steadied yourself from the initial dizziness, venture closer and fuel your heightening curiosity further. Order, homogeneity, symmetry, precision…all the essentials features of a predominantly European character meet your gaze unflinchingly. Gaze back with deeper, microscopic vision and decipher the code…similar shape, similar material, similar design. As if all houses were commissioned to the same architect, who used just one common, basic blueprint. Or were all of them clones of the first one? If they were all washed in the same colour, it would appear to be one giant condominium. Its an incredible mix of architectural styles, varying from Gothic to Art Nouveau to Art Deco exhibited through every extravagant aspect possible. Stuccoed facades, ornate columns, trellised balconies, gabled roofs, elaborate brackets, grandiose banisters, flamboyant door mouldings, decorative grills and stained glass windows. All empty! Unreal.

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…but not in spirit

The character is outwardly European, but there’s a very local spirit within. The most obvious one that strikes you is the Gujarati tradition of using wood as building material. But with an unusual, reinvented aesthetic expression. Extensive use of geometric patterns and an abundance of nature motifs like flower and creepers to adorn doors and windows, in keeping with Islamic convention. The human and animal figures that are a quintessential part of Indian design vocabulary are conspicuously absent. Every house has an intricate monogram in English representing initials of the owner! Could you think of a more impressive display for your nameplate?

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Inside, the soul of Indian havelis (mansions) reveals itself in its full glory. The central open courtyard constructed to allow light and air, richly embellished windows designed to resemble portrait frames, and demarcated living spaces for men and women, show how seamlessly outward character and inner spirit can be blended into a unified whole.

Dying heritage

The empty, forgotten lanes of Sidhpur are an example of hundreds of living traditions that are slowly dying a slow death. What must have been a modern, classy, upmarket neighbourhood 200 years back, is now a picture of neglect and sure signs of deterioration is already visible in the peeling paint, broken window panes, and cracking wood surfaces. Its not entirely impossible that dismantling and reselling of decorative elements has already begun. Locals of Sidhpur are baffled that visitors come to see these derelict, creepy Bohra mansions. What’s to see, they wonder.

As you leave the area, you can’t help but pause by the biggest, grandest house of them all. The distinctness of its structure and appearance makes you stare for a long, long time. Soft sun rays hit some of the 365 windows that speckle the grit-blackened facade of the corner villa. Suddenly, all the pretty colours that you had been admiring in those lanes seem dull and drab against this black-and-white drama. Beware! The vintage beauty of this phantom house may haunt you in your dreams tonight.

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Unearth an abandoned neighbourhood in Gujarat

93 thoughts on “Have you heard of the mysterious mansions of Sidhpur?”

    2. I’ve been there several times and our family is originally from Sidhpur.

      It’s truly an amazing historic place with maybe a third of the houses locked up and used only occasionally. The material used is the finest the world possessed 150 years ago. It’s wealth cam from traders who made their wealth from east africa, Yemen and other trading parts of the British empire. It always was a dormitory town. The men worked abroad (in partnership with fellow sidhpuris) and took turns coming back to Sidhpur and raising families…. then some of them one day they called their families and left to their work abode.

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      1. Wow, Taizoon, you are part of a fabulous legacy! Such a fascinating place Sidhpur is. It was so great to know about how the residents took turns in coming back and raising families. Thanks for sharing your side of the story.

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  3. I love the comparison picture to Karlovy Vary. I shows the architectural style, but also your later points about how the Sidhpur Mansions are very monotonic, while the Karlovv mansions vary in color from one to the next. This is one of those fascinating oddities that you see when traveling the world. There are a few American housing divisions that are made to look Tudor in their architecture, but I have seen nothing to this scale or precision.

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  4. Travelling through India is a special experience. We haven’t been to Gujurat on either of our trips there, but would definitely like to. Finding places like Dawoodi Bohras makes a trip so special. Thanks for sharing.

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  5. Wow! As a true fan of India, I have to say that I had no idea about this place. It looks impressive. And I also didn’t know that the traditional style of building in Gujarat is with wood. Gujarat is on my must-see list for sure!

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  6. Lovely post! The pictures tell a beautiful story. Your descriptions, history and comparisons to European architecture added more depth to the post. Thank you or sharing!

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  9. Stunning! I had no idea this existed! What a crazy place to stand abandoned, the homes are gorgeous! India is always full of new and crazy delights. Thanks for sharing, my wife and I will add this to our India travel list!

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  11. First off, to answer your question, no I hadn’t heard of these mysterious mansions! The fact that they are made of wood is really intriguing. They are utterly gorgeous, all those pastels in the bright sunshine. It’s sad that they are empty and forlorn. I can’t imagine someone wouldn’t want to live in them, but perhaps the cost is too great?

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    1. Yes, the cost of repair and maintenance is too high and like all other old parts of the medieval towns which are being vacated in favour of modern neighourhoods, this one too has met its fate.

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  12. In answer to your questions, I have not heard of the mysterious mansions of Sidhpur – thanks for introducing me! But wow, it definitely looks like you’ve stepped into Europe here. And they all look very extravagant – I can’t believe no-one lives here! Despite its European character though it’s good to know that there is a local soul within. So sad though how what was once such a modern and classy neighborhood can be left to total neglect. That said, I do find abandoned towns and buildings so fascinating.

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  13. Wow! What an awesome find! So unexpected. I don’t understand why they are abandoned. Made me giggle that locals wonder why visitors are drawn to them

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  14. So what happened to the Yemeni traders? How come those magnificent houses are left untouched rather than have seen others move in? So many questions!
    I am currently sitting in a hotel in Sri Lanka and some of the elements along the roofs actually remind me of what I am seeing around me. So there seems to be a common style connecting communities around the World.

    Thank you for sharing this find!
    Happy continued travels,
    C

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    2. There is a factual error about the origin of the owners
      The seat of Fatimid Ismaili faith did come to India from Yemen in the 16th-17th century but the faith itself has been in India since the 11th century when the fatimids ruled egypt.
      Most of the followers – the Bohras are local Indians who entered the faith with some yemeni and egyptian blood intermingled.
      Also the mansions are not abondened. Yes they may be neglected as the owners have left for greener pastures in metros and foreign shores when Siddhapur which was once the capital of Gujarat and a powerful kingdom lost its sheen over time.
      The newer generations of owners are not interested in returning to Siddhapur but do have a connection with their native place. They are not ready to incur the huge costs these mansions demand to regain their past glory but if you see the condition most of them are still habitable.

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      1. Thank you, Zoher, for sharing your insights about the origin of the Bohra community. It has helped to piece together the missing information. Like all old towns of the world, the challenges related to their maintenance and upkeep of this heritage neighbourhood must be tremendous, despite all the love that the owners have for their roots. The fact remains that many of these gorgeous homes are not occupied. Deeply appreciate your inputs. Thanks so much.

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  15. I love that you compare the colours with Karlovy Vary. You’re right! What an extraordinary find with a fascinating history. I, too, want to know the story of why these stunning mansions are deserted. I do hope they get restored. Tell us more.

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  16. Lovely photographs, the style reminds me a big of the south of Vienna. It’s saddening to see such beautiful constructions fall to disrepair. There’s something very haunting about these images!

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  18. Wow these houses look amazing. Very European-esque like you said and so so colourful and intricate. I would have loved to see these on my recent trip to India. I’ve never heard of Sidhpur but I’ll definitely remember it now. So cool.

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  19. What a unique and cool place! I’ve never heard of it. But you’re right, it does remind me a lot of Europe. The style, the colours, it’s really quite beautiful but I’d like to see it fixed back up, right? It’s charming in its own way though!

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  21. What a find! I can clearly see the similarity with the European architecture here. And then there are the local touches like the carvings that you called out. I would definitely like to visit these streets of Sidhpur and look at these unique buildings on my own. Overall, it looks beautiful, and that is what is important. Did you happen to visit the inside of any of these houses?

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  22. Wow, what a unique place! I don’t think I would have ever known about it if I hadn’t read your blog.
    It looks like such a cool place to explore. I’m surprised the mansions all remain empty still.
    Definitely pinning this for a future trip to India 🙂

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  23. What a beautiful piece of architecture! They are all beautifully built! I really love the pastel colors of the buildings, indeed lovely and so pleasant in my eyes. I hope they will be maintained well to preserve it’s own unique beauty. Thanks for sharing this post!

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  24. The Dawoodi Bohras neighbourhood is incredible! The architecture is truly stunning and I totally lovely the colours, even the slight fade to them is just beautiful and evocative. I hope they are maintained and restored. You were right about bracing for impact, I didn’t expect this! A hidden treasure that’s for sure.

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  27. Is it totally abandoned? Because I saw curtains in one picture. And what’s the reason to leave the city dying? I like history and when you said it’s in Gujarat, I remember it’s traders from Gujarat that brought Moslem to Indonesia in the 13th century.

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  29. Goodness me! The Bohras neighborhood is totally instagrammable with all those different shades of pastels! Why on earth is this place abandoned? I’d love to make it out here one day. Holding thumbs that someone restores them to their original beauty!

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  31. What an incredible looking place! I cannot believe it is abandoned!!! What a shame that pieces would be take from here and sold. Why not take care of the place and make something of it?! Looks so unreal! I think it should be a protected site and more people should visit! Also, it’s super “Instagram Worthy” LOL

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  32. I feel sad that after having lived for years in Ahmedabad, never visited Siddhpur. In fact it is only in recent years I have been hearing of these fascinating mansions that lie empty today, a silent comma in the passage of history. In fact recently I met someone who told me that her family owned one of these mansions and they all used to meet up there once in 5 years or so. So fascinating.

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  34. All owner of this mansions stays in other parts of the country as they all are businessmen. They do open this mansion on special occasions such as wedding in their family member or visit of HIS HOLINESS to Sidhpur or family get together.

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  35. Hi,
    I am an Sidhpuri…we also have a house in one of the lanes but a bit different from these. My father along with my Grandfather took great pride in constructing our home which belonged to the entire extended family. Till he was alive he also took great care of it and now, we all his children and children of the extended family are not able to take care of it coz all are so busy with their lives and no one has the time, money or energy to look after it…very soon it will be up for sale. It’s so sad that the glory of the past will be dust off the future..

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    1. Rashida, thanks for taking time to comment on this post. Lucky you, to have one of these heritage mansions for an ancestral home. As travellers and admirers of such beauty, we can only partake in their glory from a distance. I’m sure you have lovely memories of spending family time here.

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  36. Siddhpur – Concern For Siddhpur an organisation started by few Siddhpurites about 5 years ago are working towards reviving Siddhpur and bringing to its original glory.
    An Exhibition by the name of Siddhpur and the Dawoodi Bohras has played an important part in showcasing the true face of Siddhpur. The Totana Park(5 Bungalows in Siddhpur)are worth a visit

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    1. It is wonderful to know that there is an organization working towards preserving this neighbourhood which overflows with character. How many people are involved and how are you funding the program?

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  37. Yes I too am from Sidhpur and my family owns one of these houses
    Sad most of these houses are locked,their owners having left for cities,leaving these mansions in a state of neglect.

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  38. Been there a few years ago. Stayed in one of the largest house there, waugh family. The woodwork, the decorations are so beautiful. Took so many photos. As an architect it was painful to see only a few windows open. The rest housed all shuttered and used by the birds.

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  40. Hi
    I am native of Sidhpur and my family owns a house similar to the ones in the pictures. My story is similar to the few other Sidhpuris who have commented, wherein our grandfather/great grandfather constructed the house for all to live in and subsequent generations have moved to different cities for better business. We used to come back to Sidhpur for weddings in the family, although it has been quite some time since I have been there.
    Inside most of the houses are ornately carved wooden furniture and staircases, etched or painted frosted glass work, intricate floral patterns on the ceilings, mosaic floors and rolled up carpets!

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  41. Wow, I’ve just come across your post and these buildings remind me slightly of the old shop houses in Singapore.Ive now put it on my list for things to see in India this year. I was looking for something old and unique and this is it, very different to other places I’ve visited in India. Thanks for sharing.

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  43. My mother is from sidhpur. As a child I used to go there every year in my school years. Our house was near these mansions. As a little kid I used to wonder why these houses are build to differently from others. Anyways now going there after 5 yeras. Will see those mansions again.

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  44. I was born and bought up in sidhpur and i am glad that you took so beautiful pictures of our homes.our homes connected to each other..Thank you so very much

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  45. Hi, just read your article. Lovely piece! Covers a great deal of what Sidhpur is. Sidhpur is my native, my ancestral home is there, so I am extremely familiar with the place. Every vacation our parents would take us there, to enjoy the winters while we had the best Masala Soda with an abundance of ice cubes dancing in the tall glasses.

    The 300+ windows house is a relatives. My grandmother’s brother had made and gifted the house to his daughter. It is beautiful place.

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