Head for Junagadh Fort in Bikaner…
Set against the 200,000 square kilometre golden sand carpet that forms the Thar Desert (Great Indian Desert), is an Indian city that often misses the limelight. It has a capacity to delight you with unexpected architectural splendourā¦from ornamental havelis hidden in a mesmerizing old town maze to sumptuous palaces overflowing with examples of rich artistic craftsmanship. So, if Rajasthan is on your mind, look beyond the J-trilogy (Jaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer). And be dazzled by Bikaner!
Kick off with the inspiring story of the city, the 15th-century result of an ambitious military adventure by enterprising Rao Bika, youngest of five sons of Rao Jodha, founder of Jodhpur. Bika realises that he doesn’t stand a chance at inheritance, so, he moves far from home towards inhospitable desert terrain to create a new kingdom of his own. State flourishes, generations thrive. Bikanerās sixth ruler, Raja Rai Singhji accepts Mughal sovereignty and leaves behind a priceless legacyā¦Junagarh Fort (meaning big fort). The 986m-long wall with 37 bastions spread over a mammoth 5.28 hectares of land, encloses one of the finest examples of architecture in the country. Reserve a day for Bikanerās magnum opus. Wow factor guaranteed.
But Junagarh is more than just a monument of scale. First, tick off all the quintessential architectural elements of a Rajasthan royal palace fortā¦ impressive public areas, luxurious private quarters, graceful pavilions, wide-open courtyards, elegant pillar columns, overhanging balconies, intricate jaali-screen windows (jharokhas) and the iconic chhatris.
Now zoom in for the finer details and wait for the jaw-drop. Intricate wall murals, elaborate stucco ceilings, lavish lacquered doors, pretty enamelled mirrors, even Dutch glazed tiles and Chinese wallpapers. Not just panelsā¦entire rooms studded with exquisitely styled, gilded walls. Thereās delicacy in each flawless motif and innovation in every impeccable patternā¦tasteful, inventive, poetic. Scan. And process.
Dig deeper into the leftovers of art that bloomed to cross limits of imagination under a series of prosperous military leaders from the 17th-century Karan Mahal to the 18th-century Chander Mahal and the 19th-century Badal Mahal. Mughal-inspired white marble with wide-spaced floral and geometric ornamentation that make you sigh. Elaborate stucco ceilings that tempt you to be taller. Glass mosaic with gold leaf that evoke a silent āunbelievableā. Gold plated deities that make you blink. Paintings inlaid with precious stones that challenge your conscience. Carved panels and mirrors that feel like Cinderella. Let your right brain take over.
And finally, gear up for the best in this palace-fort-meets-art gallery with my favorite takeawayā¦the finest examples of local Usta art in the country. If youāve seen one example, you can easily recognize it all over the palace complex. This highly ornate and detailed lacquer work on camel hide (āUstaā comes from Persian word ‘Ustad’ meaning master) uses vibrant colours and striking gold motifs in floral and animal forms. For the most elaborate, more intricate, more opulent example, swoon over the gold-vermillion Anup Mahal. Ā Ā
Usta stuns you wherever you go in the palace complex. Practice spotting the popular Taarabandi (a star-studded sky) and Naqqashi, (patterns of flowers and motifs) on ceiling surfaces, door or wall panels. Three-dimensional and embossed. Resplendent like Indian jewellery. Royal like Persian carpets. And regal like French tapestries. Undulating curves and strong shapes. Each pattern unique, all very distinctly Mughal in styling. Overwhelmed much?
The handful of Usta artists who migrated from Iran to India during the reign of Mughal emperor Akbar were clueless that their craft would be relayed forward several centuries to become an icon of Bikaner. Ironically, just a handful of these skilful artists surviveā¦as in all other demanding art forms across the world. But you can still scout the local handicraft stores for a handcrafted (very expensive) Usta souvenir. A coaster, goblet, vase, photo frame, or lampā¦how deep is your pocket? More importantly, how large is your heart?
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Good god, what a feast for the eyes! The history is amazing, but I’m afraid I would’ve had a hard time absorbing anything besides how gorgeous and intricate the whole place is š thank you so much for sharing!
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The palace in itself is a experience. And you’re right…it overshadows everything else.
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I love the look and feel of Bikaner. It looks like you had such an awesome time!
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Junagadh Palace is very regal. I have another post on Bikaner havelis in my blog..in case you’re interested.
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Those fine details are so lovely! Murals and ceilings, decorative windows.
It must have been quite an experience to stand there in person, among those colorful ornaments. Nice photos! š
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Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed the post.
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I’ve been to Rajasthan & you’re right, like many travellers I only visited the 3 J’s… if I had known about Bukaner then, I probably would’ve checked it out, I love this kind of palace architecture, it’s simply stunning
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Bikaner and neighbouring Shekhawati region are known for intricate workmanship.
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I wonder if this is one of the places my friend visited during her 3 months traveling across India. I remember those fine details. Beautiful.
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Three months in India must have been a wonderful experience.
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What a beautiful place to explore! The details and colors of everything are amazing! I bet it was amazing to see this architecture in person! I know I’d love to!
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Rajasthan is a treasure trove for architecture lovers.
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I absolutely loved Rajasthan . There is so much detail in everything – as you have shown. I can only imagine what it must have been like to live in some of these places surrounded by such beauty.
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Some of the most intricate examples of art and architecture are found all over Rajasthan. In those days, these details served functional as well as aesthetic reasons.
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It is an absolutely beautiful place. The attention to detail is amazing.
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Every wall and every panel worth a new photograph.
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Bikaner is one of my all time fav place and indeed Junagarh Fort is a treasure trove. i wrote a blog post on Bikaner. You may like to visit
https://everythingcandid.com/2015/04/06/bikaner-a-perfect-destination-for-an-explorer/
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Junagadh Fort is so underrated!
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Indeed!
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Its hard to explain how gorgeous and detailed this buildings are made. For many years, it is still proud standing tall, rich with the old cultures.
I will add his to my travel list š
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Wow! We visited the Alhambra in Spain this spring and the intricate details reminds me of it. Would love to see this in person! Thanks for sharing, it’s going on the list!
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The Moorish influence on Alhambra and the Mughal influence on Rajasthan architecture have much in common. You will love Bikaner š
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Beautiful work! I’m so interested in India, I have no idea how I have yet made it there. It just seems like a country that would take months if not years to explore properly!
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You’re right…India deserves several years to be explored fully. š
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Wah! Never have I ever heard of this place before! Looks amazing and you review just made me want to go see for myself. Thanks for sharing this gem!
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It is truly a gem, one that is less known.
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The whole architectural intricate design is truly amazing. I love the history that it has to offer to everyone. It is something that really interest me and hopefully, I get the chance to visit this place in the near future. Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
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The talent of those artists, and the rich history behind all the art is mind boggling.
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Wow!! All that detail is amazing! I wonder how long it took to put all this together!
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The skill levels of that era are unmatched!
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What gorgeous buildings. So much detail in the designs. You are so lucky to have been here to see this! I need to add India to my bucket list. I have heard so many wonderful things, plus the history and architect that awaits!
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True! One is blessed to be able to enjoy the beauty of travel.
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Wow, that is some wonderful craftsmanship there. It’s like a beautiful work of art on a larger scale. The inside reminds me a bit of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. The pictures were good as well. Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you. Every inch is a slice of art š
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Bikaner is one of my favorite cities in India. I just had such a great time there and we stayed in a hotel with decorations similar to your photos. Great city.
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Did you get a chance to visit some of the the havelis (mansions)? I have a separate blog post on that.
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Wow, what an opulent place to visit! I haven’t made it to India yet but Bikaner looks like a great place to add to the list. š Amazing architecture and mosaics.
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A must see if you love palaces
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amazing
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Thank you!
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What a beautiful place. I love off the beaten path places and this one looks great out of the J trilogy. Some decoration on the pictures reminded me of the royal palace in Isfahan, maybe crafts masters traveled a lot and learnt different techniques in other countries.
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The artisans originally came from Persia.
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I though I recognized a bit of Persian artistry there! Your descriptions are spot on and make one picture it even without looking at the photos. So much work went into this place but you can tell there is a lot of dedication and heart as well. This place really needs to be put on the map so thanks for your great introduction to it!
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Bikaner has so much to offer. And Junagadh Fort is the surprise element.
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I love everything about this place. I’ve never been here, but it’s definitely someplace that would take my interests due to its historical value, architecture and essence.
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Good to know that we share so many common interests! š
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I love all those tiles and colours ā¤ It's fascinating to imagine how long it took to put them all in place. Its definitely a place I would be interested in visiting š
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Most people don’t know how stunning the Usta art in Junagadh Fort is.
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Wow! That is truly amazing! I would love to see something like that someday… so beautiful! Not only the patterns but also the colours. This will go to my bucket list.
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These are just pictures. The craftsmanship in incredible when its there before your eyes.
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What an incredible ornate place to visit, I just love the details and the colours, it seems like it would be a wonderful experience to see it in person.
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You will find choicest examples of art and architecture in Bikaner.
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The Junagadh Fort is a truly remarkable feat! It’s amazing the size and scale of the fort. I’m very impressed with the architectural features and intricate details within the structure. Hopefully, I’ll be able to visit one day!
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Bikaner would be a wonderful experience!
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It just looks like a fairy tale again. I wonder how long it took for the people to make it all! Tiny patterns and golden ornaments! You can see how much passion people put into it to create something immortal!
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The Usta artwork is so intricate and delicate. Craftmanship par excellence…
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I missed visiting this place and completely agree that Bikaner is a feast for the eyes. Lovely artwork all throughout. Would love to visit Bikaner again someday just for this. Lovely pictures.
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Junagadh Fort was a huge surprise.
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Thank you for your great post! I’m going to travel to India. Now I have known what to visit in this beautiful country.
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Glad you liked the post. It seems that Rajasthan is on your India itinerary. Where else are you going?
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I’d like to start from Goa
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Understandable
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During my visit to Rajasthan, I skipped Bikaner in favor of the J-triology. Now that I realize it was a huge mistake, it is time to revisit Rajasthan.
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Bikaner is a great road trip from Delhi.
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