Loving Bellagio and Varenna, despite the rain…
Early morning, last day of Italy trip. Bed stumble, groggy walk, window peek, cringe. Wet roads…not on Lake Como day! But if you travel shoulder season to Europe, like us, a frequent drizzle will be a constant companion, so its best to make your peace with the clouds. You can’t change the weather, but you can certainly change the shape of your facial muscles. Brave the rains with a smile!
Two hours later. Stubborn dark skies. Hoodie check. Umbrella check. Street-bound. And train-bound. Milano Centrale to Varenna-Essino. Window seat, hazy view. Weaving along the Lombardy countryside, is that a faint silhouette of an enchanting town in the distance? And the lakes under that chiffon cloak of mist… mmm, right about now. Eyes back to Kindle. Quick glance later. Visibility has improved. Glimpses of Varenna as the train curves along the track, in-and-out of tunnels. Hope elevator.
Breathe in lungfuls of crisp autumn air, as you walk downhill under thick lush cypress and pine to the waterfront. Varenna tempts, you resist. Focus, focus. Its still dry, must catch a boat to Bellagio first. There’s one every half hour. Play mentalist with the unsuspecting clouds…go away, go away, just for today.
Soon, you’re floating in the shadow of the Alps encased in Italy’s Lake District. Several long, deep breaths. Gaze at the horizon dotted with green islands. Graceful lakeside villas of the rich and famous. Drool time. Imagine the colours of the landscape in the sun. Clooney’s pad, somewhere? Blink and miss…because in 10 minutes flat, you’re de-boarding at Bellagio, ‘Pearl of Como’. Could they have coined a more apt catchphrase?
Bellagio is posh, swanky and old-world. Aristocratic villas converted into grand harbour-front hotels…art nouveau ironwork breaking the softness of the pastel shades. Colorful houses in pale pink, peach, tangerine, lemon and ochre with contrasting green shutters, clinging at absurd angles to the wooded hill behind. You feel pampered without a reason. Skip the cafes, restaurants and arcaded boutiques on Via Garibaldi. Postpone that indulgence spirit for now.
Linger along the flower-embellished lakefront path leading to Villa Melzi. You’re a guest at the 19th-century summer residence of Francesco Melzi d’Eril, (vice president of the Italian Republic during the early 1800s). This is one impressive neoclassical villa guarded by stone lions. With more than its share of generously proportioned botanical gardens. Avenues of plane trees. Profusion of bright azaleas and rhododendrons. And a hidden Japanese waterbody. Chin up, haughty expression…no one’s looking.
Stroll along the endless multi-level sloping grass mounds. Mimic the stance of dreamy marble statues. Search out the grotto. Pretend you’re virtuoso composer-pianist Franz Liszt writing his famous Dante Symphony in the delightful Arabian pavilion. Watch a newly married couple walk past or daydream on those delicate wrought-iron chairs. The mist hangs over the steel-grey waters. Clouds kiss the hills. Are you even noticing that raindrops are still falling on your head? Who cares. You’re in Como!
Your jeans are damp and your shoes are squeaky. And don’t even get started on the limp hair. But you can’t get enough of this ogling, can you? More eye-candy awaits in the town. So, head for that long flight of gently inclined cobblestone steps going up from the main street. Large, rough, round, slippery, pebbly steps. Rain on your head. Umbrella in your hands. A neon green rain jackets walks past. You’re actually loving the weather! Hey, isn’t this the famous street with the lamp?
Go mmmmm at a Italian trattoria. Wander into the criss-cross maze of narrow streets. More charming when you call them by their Italian name (contradas). Stare at iron-grill balconies. Gaze at vine-covered doorways. Measure your height against elegant arched entrances. Find fluttering Italian flags. Take a gelato stop. (Make that two). Go up one flight. Down another. Fantasise about driving a yellow Beetle. Wander more. And when you’ve lost your heart to Bellagio, remind yourself that Varenna is waiting.
If Bellagio is the glamorous, air-brushed cover gal, Varenna is the unaffected, alluring girl next door. Still spotless, faultless, like a generous painter’s imagination. No fancy boutiques or swishy promenade, just a quaint fishing village atmosphere draping the air (minus the fishy smell, of course). And something far better than a parking lot of swanky cars…a pretty boardwalk! The Lovers’ Path, as it is called, runs along the edge of the lake upto the historic center. Pause under the red-painted, wisteria-draped canopy and renew your vows. Write a poem. Hold hands. Become the subject of a picture. Hum your favorite tune. Or just smile. Everything works.
Just a handful of people around. Enjoy the solitude. Explore the two 19th-century villas with beautiful gardens (Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero). Test your lungs by hiking up to Castello di Vezio. Or just follow our league…repeat the Bellagio routine. Up and down long flights of steps. Notice how they curve slightly in the middle. Catch the shadow of light on the smooth stones worn out over time. Capture every inch of prettiness in your camera. And memorise with your mind’s eye. The crispy curl of the russet fallen autumn leaf. A little piazza overlooked by 14th-century Church of St. George. A sundial on a wall. Church bells in motion. A half-open church door. It just doesn’t end.
When your legs start protesting, return to the waterfront and find a table with a view at Varenna Caffe. Coffee, cake and tranquility. Hypnotic rippling of the lake, soft lapping of the waves, a red boat bobbing in the distance on the grey water. Life on Lake Como. Imagine everyday exotic in this little postcard town. Board-walking home every evening. Watching the sun go down over the silvery surface of the lake. Sounds of silence. A fresh breeze. Who needs meditation when you have this?
But tick tock, tick tock, you have a train to catch for Milan. And suddenly, a miracle! The clouds part gently and the sun peeks through. Yassssss! A brilliant blue would never evoked so much divinity. And look at that view! No wonder artists have been inspired by Lake Como ever since the 2nd century BC. Definitely calls for some more pictures. So, take home some exquisite portraits of your own.
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100cobbledroads.com 
It looks like you were a little unlucky with the weather. When we stayed in Bellagio, it was wall-to-wall sunshine. Still, it’s an area which I guess looks beautiful regardless of the conditions. 🙂
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That is exactly the theme of my article…even rain cannot reduce the beauty of a day at Como.
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Love it all! Despite the rain, the wetness and the squidgeyness, Lake Como manages to delight – and what’s great is that there’s still such a variety of things to do and see.
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Absolutely. One just needs to have a flexible attitude and everything falls into place.
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I haven’t been to this part of Italy, it really looks amazing. I would love to explore the lake country area some day.
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An area so different from the rest of Italy. This country offers so much diversity.
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Hey, I love your descriptives in this post. In addition, I feel like this is one of the most important things for travelers to learn: sometimes you’ve got to take what the weather (or another key element of travel) gives you and make something good out of it. Attitude trumps obstacle.
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Attitude certainly trumps obstacle. And rain dries up, that’s the best part 🙂
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haha making peace with the clouds is easier said than done but it seems like the clouds added a little extra character to this gorgeous region. I would love to explore the tiny lane-ways and streets. Glad the rain didn’t ruin your experience 😀
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Its actually quite easy….if you make up your mind. Only water after all 🙂
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Coming from Vancouver, I am well acquainted with rain and actually look forward to rainy days when I travel. They feel more intimate.
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Intimate is such a nice description for a rainy day. I agree!
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How great that the sun came out at the end for you! We loved Como though didn’t visit Villa Melzi, one for next time! It must be nice to see Varenna too as a less crowded alternative.
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Since it was raining, even Bellagio was not crowded. So we had a field day in the rains 🙂
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I love those moody days. Great writing, you conveyed it perfectly!
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Thank you so much! Glad the post interested you 🙂
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Rainy days (especially when you’re on travel) can be such a bummer. But.. after looking at your photos and the way you described Lake Como, the weather was really not a hindrance to enjoy it! Lake Como looked awesome! And the sun did come out! ❤ ❤
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Yes, overall it was one of our most memorable days. And penning down the experience has reminded me of that even more.
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I know the rain makes touring a bit less pleasant, but I love the moodiness behind your photos. And the colorful old world architecture still shines through. I would love to walk those cobblestone streets and also enjoy an Italian trattoria as the world goes by. Everything intrigues me, from the statues in the parks to the waterfront. Now I want to go! 🙂
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Rain makes touring less pleasant because it demands a different set of clothing and a different mindset. Equipped with both of those…rains are fun 🙂
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Rain or shine, that region looks amazing. It’s hard to be gloomy with those colorful buildings and beautiful trees!
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It was actually perfect weather, now that I think of it.
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i like it more when rains…it gives you a different experience of a destination. Lake Como looks beautiful with rain…your images makes this destination more beautiful for me….
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I agree with you wholeheartedly. One just has to be extra careful with the camera. 🙂
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Rain aside, Lake Como is one of those places that people tend to rave about. I love Italy and the quaintness of Como is something I deffo would like to see in the future.
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It certainly is worth raving about. The landscape is incredible.
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In such a beautiful place, it doesn’t matter if it rains or not…One of the most charming places in Europe can afford that! 🙂
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Charming to the extreme…Italy is my favorite country, every inch of it.
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I love the north of Italy – Was in Como as a little girl – I think we were driving my sister to a school in Southern Germany and my mum decided to drive through Italy. I have really good memories of that trip.
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That drive through Italy was one of the best plans ever…
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Lovely post. Although it was a rainy day it seems you had a great day. The way you write makes me smile. 😀
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Thank you. It makes me smile that I made you smile 🙂
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Looks like a beautiful place even rain can’t ruin a day visiting! Really good shots 🙂
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Thanks a ton! Yes, we managed decent pictures too 🙂
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Rain is one of the things I hate when travelling. I’m impressed on how you make Lake Como interesting even if its raining. I heard a saying in Europe “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”. That’s why, people still go outside even if its raining. 😀
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That quote is absolutely true, blend in and adjust to the weather and everything seems perfect. Fight it, and its all horrible.
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Even though it may have been gloomy, the beautiful surroundings still came through in your pictures. Have not been to the northern part of Italy yet, but it looks gorgeous. If nothing else, the place inspired your creativity. Great approach to telling your story 🙂
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Gloomy or romantic..depends on how we view it 🙂 Thank you, glad you enjoyed the read.
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Lake Como is quite a beautiful city. The country side is gorgeous. Honestly, I could even tell it was raining if that the weather wasn’t good based on your pictures. I’m in Ljubljana right now and it won’t stop raining in fact it’s rain now…again. All you can do is dress properly and try to enjoy.
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We always get rain when we travel in October, so we have learnt to love it.
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In a gorgeous Italian city like this one, there’s no way rainy weather can ruin your day!
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You sad it!
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Punita, Sometimes I really do love a rainy day, especially when I can lounge around a cafe and just watch the world go by. It sounds like you have a fun Lake Como day.
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I agree with you, Corinne. We encountered several rainy days while in Italy, but it was more beautiful with the glistening drops on the cobbled roads.
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I love how you enjoyed the place and made the most of your time even when it’s raining! Sometimes it’s how we look at things that are presented to us. Your photos are lovely, too!
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If on a rainy day this seems so beautiful, imagine how it would be on a bright day. Lovely pictures. I can see you had a great time .
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Actually, looking back now…I think our Como pictures are so much nicer with the rain 🙂
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Wow, this is such a lovely place to amble around, but seemed that you were unluckily enjoying the place because of the weather. But I also love how you made way to enjoy the place despite of the weather condition. I haven’t been here and if I get the chance will surely traipse my feet here. Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
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If you decide to have fun, you have fun. Really quite simple 🙂
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I feel like the rainy brings a whole different kind of beauty to this place. I hate the fact that I couldn’t visit here on my trip to Italy, I heard it is amazing. I bet you really enjoyed yourself there, the solitude you said would be just what I need right now!
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Rain adds a new dimension to everything. And goes so well with coffee 🙂
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Oooooo. Its really a turn off at many places when it starts raining… One of my trips was majorly ruined thanks to rain! But then there are some trips, esp to natural beauty places, its just made more beautiful. Reminds me of the trip to Richmond Park – the greenery and hundreds of deers in the drizzle, it was just perfect. Glad you had a great time inspite of the rain and good that finally the clouds cleared up.
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Rains make some places more romantic, like our trip to Meghalaya earlier this year.
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You have such great attitude about the weather and your quote ‘brave the rain with a smile’. The view is definitely hypnotic, drinking your coffee getting lost in the beautiful mountain view and lake. Such a lovely location, rain or sunshine 🙂
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Thank you! I love the rains.
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I went to Lake Como in May last year and had a full week of rain! The sun finally came out on the afternoon we headed back to the airport, so I had a brief glimpse of what it looked like when the mountains weren’t hidden beneath grey cloud and mist – I definitely need to go back and experience it more in the sunshine!
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That sounds exactly like our day…rain and mist that ended with a burst of sunshine.
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This looks like the perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon in Lake Como. I’ve never been but the rain wouldn’t stop me from exploring just like it didn’t stop you. I’d probably keep going, wet/squeaky shoes and all, no matter what. Stopping at Varenna Caffe was a brilliant idea. I could sit at a cafe and watch the world go by for hours on end. Lovely post.
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Thanks a million! It was one of our best days in Italy, even with the rain 🙂
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I remember doing a quick pitstop for a coffee at Lake Como 10 years ago, I still remember how beautiful it was. Wish I could’ve stayed longer. I love how you made the best of your rainy day. Gorgeous photos!
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Rain did affect the colors of the scene, but it could not touch the atmosphere 🙂
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Love Lake Como. You got to see a lot despite the weather. It’s still a beautiful spot even when it’s a bit overcast. Great you saw Villa Melzi. I’ve been twice and still haven’t seen the villa.
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Villa Melzi is right on the lakefront, one doesn’t have to walk more than 10 minutes. Third time, maybe?
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beautiful it is…..
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Thanks!
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Looks like you still had a wonderful day even if it was rainy! Always so great when you can have a fun day despite the weather. Love the photos–Lake Como looks so beautiful and I’ve heard so many wonderful things about the area! The lakefront path leading to Villa Melzi looks really great!
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The location on the lakeside adds to the prettiness of these two towns. Both Varenna and Bellagio are must-visits.
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Great post! I loved your description of the walk, the rain, the general feeling. I felt like I was right there with you!!
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Thank you so much! Como was all about feelings.
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Your experience brings to my mind the saying of making lemonades if life gives lemon. On a rainy day and you still achieved this lot. What this means is that there is a lot to Varenna & Bellagio. I’d love to visit. And the lake is just too lovely.
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Varenna and Bellagio are the kind of places to want to walk around and feel the vibe. Weather doesn’t matter 🙂
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Congratulations! This is the first time I’ve seen photos of Lake Como without the picture-perfect but OH-so-already-done-a-million-times blue skies and sun!! So your article really stands out in the plethora of Oh-how-wonderful-it-was-at-Lake-Como posts that go on at tedious length about how awesome it is – yours actually SHOWS how awesome it is!! Fabulous!!
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Thank you so much!! That is the best comment I have received on this post.
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Even with the rain it looks gorgeous! I love Italy but I’ve never visited Lake Como. I hope to change that one day soon!
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Lake Como is the most chic region of Italy
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I spent a day in Lake Como years ago and still remember how beautiful it is. Glad to see you didn’t let the weather damper your spirits. Your pictures turned out amazing!
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The pictures actually surprised me.
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The rain makes it even more romantic. Don’t think you can ruin Lake Como!
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My feelings, absolutely.
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I would visit here any time of the year to be honest. It is absolutely gorgeous!
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True! All year long, perennial beauty.
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Amazing place and photos, I was only writing about Lake Como yesterday, so I was happy to read your post. xx
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Its so nice reading about a place one has visited recently. Refreshes memories.
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So beautiful, even on a rainy day! Great guide, thanks for sharing 🙂
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Have you been to Lake Como?
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luckily it’s a gorgeous place regardless of the weather!! I’d love to visit at some point!
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And so close to Milan!
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I am not a fan of rainy days but the rain somehow makes everything magical! This is an awesome experience regardless of the weather. When’s the best time of the year to explore Lake Como?
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We went in October and felt that was perfect.
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Wow Lake Como and these pictures look fantastic! Ive always wanted to go here, how does it compare to Lake Garda?
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We haven’t been to Lake Garda, but Lake Como was stunning.
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One advantage of visiting a place when it’s shiny is that it makes the buildings shiny and glossy! I’m tempted to visit Lake Como this winter as it’s close to my route. It’s good I don’t have to worry about the weather, it looks beautiful whatever!
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That is so true! The gleaming surfaces catch light in such a beautiful way.
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This is such a cool post as I think the weather can really spoil our plans sometimes. I had rainy weather in Lisbon and Florence and I think you just have to suck it up, and your post has proven to be that lake Como can be super even in the rain! There is something quite romantic about it all I think. Thatnks for all your Lake Como recommendations, I hope to visit very soon.
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I agree, rain is so romantic. Sipping coffee and watching people go by is so apt for such weather.
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