Croatia’s capital, Zagreb deserves more limelight…
Elegant stone-tiled mansions and newer apartments stand shoulder-to-shoulder in harmony along broad tree-lined avenues and inviting green spaces. Its understated elegance, relaxed pace and easy cafe culture grows on you unobtrusively. This is a lovely city recreating itself, carving out a new identity, while preserving the richness of its past. Zagreb may be underrated, but you will regret skipping it. Here are my firm recommendations on the two atmospheric neighbourhoods to concentrate your energies on, while visiting Croatia’s capital.
Donji Grad: Quintessential European grace
Viennese architect Hermann Bollé’s 19th-century creations are the eye-candy of the Lower Town (Donji Grad). Start with the grand Marshal Tito Square, where an imposing equestrian statue of King Tomislav, the first medieval Croatian king, graces the area. Feast on the sight of exquisite National Theater and the Art Pavilion, an art gallery housed in a fabulous long building with an inviting, sunny yellow façade, and a park surrounded by crunchy gravely paths. Don’t miss the beautiful neo-classical Zagreb railway station. A throwback to the times when it used to be a stopover for the intriguing Orient Express (king of trains and train of kings) that chugged from London to Istanbul. Then there’s ‘The Fountain of Life’ bronze fountain, a work of art by famed Croatian scupltor, Ivan Meštrović, Rodin’s favourite disciple. And countless fascinating neo-Classical and neo-Renaissance buildings converted into luxury hotels.
Museums at every corner, huge parks, wide avenues and carefully installed fountains and sculptures lead to the main square, Ban Josip Jelacic, within 20 minutes. With its central equestrian statue and the famous Manduševac fountain (an original spring), this heart of the city is accompanied by all the usual suspects…grand buildings converted into plush offices and luxury stores, pigeons flocking for seed, people moving about their daily business, locals chatting over coffee in the outdoor cafes and shoppers armed with goodies. Modern blue trams glide along Ilica, the crowded artery of the old town. A hum of pleasant tranquility!
Blend in. Sample your first Croatian street food off a tiny stall…fritule, small doughnut balls sprinkled with icing sugar or cinnamon, served on thin, long sticks…sweet, crunchy, with a hint of orange zest and brandy. Linger among the bustling crowds in the lively Cvjetni Square (Flower Square), where open-air cafes and modern shopping plazas contrast sharply with the sombre Serbian Orthodox Church looming large. Tune into all the Dalmatian small-talk around you…the bus stop, ticket counter, bank queues, roasted chestnut vendors and sunny cafés. This is one chitty-chatty nation!
Follow the human stream into Zagreb’s most well known party-place…the enchanting Tkalčićeva, a long street lined with pretty, old, tiny houses with pastel colored facades, slanting roofs, and chimneys, alternating with small galleries, shops selling bric-a-brac, lovely boutiques, cafes, bars, and more cafes, and more bars. Peek into the criss-cross streets. Explore the hidden nooks. And when your legs protest, sink into the couch of a street-facing café that beckons seductively. Time stands still as the world walks by.
Today’s Tkalčićeva is a charming street known for its night life, where locals and tourists mingle, but it was once the border between the two rival cities, separated by Zagreb’s two hills, Gradec and Kaptol and is said to have been witness to many bloody battle. Contemplate this evolution from blood baths to beer bars, and suddenly, an ordinary coffee break will be a moment to be treasured forever!
Close by, discover delights at the Dolac market, an 80-year old treasure trove for home-made foodstuffs, fresh fish and meat, cheese and cream, fruit and vegetables. Browse around in the stalls in the open space filled with rows, and rows of red umbrellas. Select pretty, handmade Croatian souvenirs or lay your hands on hot favourites like lavender and lace!
And finally, head to the wide-open Kaptol square, where the twin-spired Gothic Zagreb Cathedral stands unrestricted, showered with its chosen place in the sun. A grand, somewhat unusual medieval fortress-cathedral, where delicacy of lacy ornamentation contrasts with sturdiness of a towered defensive wall. Inside, thin strips of windows accentuate the structure’s height, a rustic brown-yellow chequered tile floor creates an unusual cheerfulness, and a blue-grey star-spangled ceiling adds an element of grace. The city’s most important landmark is the perfect spot to end a fulfilling day.
Gornji Grad: Quaint and timeless
Travel in Zagreb’s oldest public transport carriage, the 100-year old funicular, from the 5.66 km long shopping street of Ilica to the old Upper Town (Gornji Grad). But not before stopping for fabulous ice cream and home-made pastries at the vintage confectionary, Vincek (circa 1977). Within minutes, you’re on the cobbled streets of Gornji Grad, facing the medieval Lotrščak Tower, where a resounding cannon is fired everyday at noon, followed by the adjusting of Zagreb’s clocks and ringing of church bells. A time-keeper tradition that goes back to ancient times, when the tower bell announced the closing of the city’s gates at night.
You will be irresistibly drawn to the beautifully serene, green Strossmayer Promenade on the left, which stretches all along the ramparts. Priceless views of the Lower Town below, canopies of towering chestnut trees, fiery red-gold carpets of autumn’s falling leaves, antique ornate lamps for after sun-down and inviting benches under these tall trees. Join the artists, students, joggers, lovers and locals taking a newspaper break. Another slice of Zagreb life.
Listen to your own footsteps as you walk the empty, spotless, cobbled streets. Hang on till dark to witness the gas oil street lamps being lit as a ritual. A random vehicle or two zips past, otherwise all is quiet among the pretty rows of small houses (they only look newly built). In the middle of the smallish, open square, is a remarkably styled centrepiece. The red-blue tiled St Marks Church, with the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia. Circle it and get a sense of how modestly sized the building is. Only the tall bell tower, with tiny slit windows at four levels gives away the secret. The baroque St. Catherine’s Church beside it…now that’s a different story.
Within a stone’s throw of the church are the Parliament and government buildings. Surprisingly thin security…so approachable! If it weren’t for the several ‘Men in Black’ poised outside and the one-off important-looking passenger stepping in and out of the shiny black car, it would be just another office building. No terrorist or paparazzi threat here, obviously.
If offbeat is your cup of tea, explore the Museum of Broken Relationships, for a quirky, even bizarre collection of personal objects donated by ex-lovers from all over the world, including articles of clothing, photos and reminders of unpleasant memories. Pick up fun souvenirs like memory erasers and plaster to mend broken hearts. For the more conventional at heart, there are other museums around, including the Natural History Museum, the Croatian Museum of Native Art and the Mestrovic Gallery (home and permanent gallery of the famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic). A whole afternoon well taken care of.
And when you’ve soaked it all in, reach for the ramparts to indulge in spectacular views of the red-roof houses in the city below. The towering twin-steepled cathedral clearly hogs the limelight. Shades of orange, rust, ochre, brown sharpen the blueness of the cloudy blue sky. Classic. Eternal. Unforgettable. Zagreb. The most underrated capital city in Europe, isn’t it?
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It looks such a nice city! It’s a shame people overlook it!
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People tend to be drawn to hype. Zagreb doesn’t have any hype.
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Croatia is on my bucket list for next year and this looks just beautiful!
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You will love it!
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Zagreb is a really intriguing city for me. My introduction to this charming city was through the world of books. “The Lady from Zagreb”, a Bernie Gunther novel from Philip Kerr is set here. Would love to visit this city in the world of reality some day. In the interim enjoyed a virtual tour of the place through your post.
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I haven’t read that book, but now that I know about it, am curious..
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Have never read on Zagreb, seems like a very fascinating city. Very comprehensive read, thanks.
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Hope you go visit and see for yourself.
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You nailed this one. Great coverage of the city. We visited in the winter off-season, alas no fish market, but much less crowded!
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Thank you so much!! Autumn was also very comfortable. I doubt if Zagreb is ever over-crowded.
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Going to Zagreb next month… already nice first impression with this blogpost:)! But ‘most’ underrated city… is for all people different:). I can name a lot of most underrated cities: Vilnius,Skopje, Ljubljana,Belgrade,Coimbra… :)? Have a nice weekend:)
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Most underrated capital city, not just city. 🙂 Yet to visit Vilnius,Skopje, Ljubljana, Belgrade, but we all have our own choices..
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Yup exactly, but seems you still have to visit all the other smaller charming capitals:). Underrated yes, the ‘most’ ? Have a nice weekend
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And now, in the era of communication at light speed, we have chances to view and discover everywhere any time, through well designed presentations like your blog, to hear about new types of ratings.
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Thanks for stopping by and leaving a wonderful comment! 🙂
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I totally agree with you it is so underrated compare to many other cities and I am not sure why as it’s a great city to explore. We loved it especially walking around in Kaptol and the night life in Tkalčićeva. We also found it so much cheaper than many other capital cities in Europe and after spending a week on the Dalmatian Coast, Zagreb felt really cheap. We loved the coffee culture too. Having a coffee in Flower Sq and watching the world go by was fabulous! We’d love to go back soon.
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We chose it primarily as a base for Plitvice, but apart from that, we were glad we stayed in Zagreb because it has a lovely, down-played atmosphere.
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Oh wonderful, yes this is firmly on my list. I love produce markets so Dolac definitely appeals and of course I must try those fritule doughnuts – orange zest and brandy, hellooo! And the Museum of Broken Relationships is one which sounds quirky and unusual!!
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Food-wise, Balkans have an very unusual mic of influences..Middle East and Mediterranean. You will enjoy it!
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Really good stuff guys. I’m going back to Europe early next year and you’ve made me put Zagreb high on my list.
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Enjoy your Croatia travels.!
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Excellent post! I felt I was right there beside you as you described “gravelly paths” or fritules, the architecture and the views. And your photo slide shows were the perfect way to see Zagreb on your engaging tour.
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Thanks a ton! Whenever I can’t decide which pictures to leave, I go for slideshows 🙂
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I think Krakow is one of the most underrated cities in Europe! I never knew that Zagreb wasn’t as famous, here in Italy it’s well known, Italians love Croatia!
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Krakow is pretty popular now. But I think as a capital city, Zagreb deserves more.
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So many underrated cities in Europe. Dubrovnik and Zagreb in Croatia.
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Dubrovnik is not underrated, but Zagreb is.
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Street food is the best way to learn about a country. There you go Croatia! So … I’m going for the small doughnut balls sprinkled with the hint of orange zest and brandy! Zagreb, I’m coming!
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Croatian food is very interesting. Try the Cevapi too (Balkan sausage sandwich)
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Thanks for bringing this to our attention. We’ve been thinking about where to visit in Europe this autumn, somewhere different and not so popular but still interesting. This could be the place.
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Croatia is perfect in autumn. You can add Montenegro as a side trip. Or Slovenia.
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I agree, Zagreb is a lovely town. Donji Grad really is very charming. And I did like the railway station building. That was actually the first thing I saw when I went for the first time, since I came by train from Belgrade, Serbia. Nice, cozy town, not that big, but a real capitol.
So glad you’ve enjoyed it. 🙂
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We did not know we would love it so much when we landed there. Zagreb was a surprise package.
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Heard about Zagreb but not the beauty of the place as it doesn’t seem quite touristy. Glad you covered it. It does have a mysterious feel to it.
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People tend to skip Zagreb in favour of Dubrovnik which is more exotic.
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This is another city I’ve never heard of (hides face). Thanks for providing such a detailed guide for exploring the city!
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I like the ‘hides face’ 🙂 🙂 🙂
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I totally agree that Zagreb is underrated and deserves more tourism – it was one of the highlights of my time in Croatia. So much incredible neo-classical and medieval architecture, grand buildings, and incredible museums with rich culture. Kaptol square and the Cathedral were my favorite 🙂
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Zagreb packs a punch, without your knowing it.
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Zagreb is definitely an underrated city that deserves more attention. However, I will be happy when I visit it to not be killed by the tourist mass like in other cities!
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Fall is a good time…and Zagreb is not as crowded as other more popular cities.
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It looks awesome! It’s nice that you show us Zagreb through your post with pictures and details. I’ll be in Europe next summer and I’d love to visit some of those underrated cities that are well worth a visit!
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That sounds wonderful. Hope you enjoy your trip!
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I have to say that so far I haven’t been able to find the real charm of Zagreb. Been there twice (for two days) and I still feel like it’s missing something (for me). But of course, I didn’t explore it as much as you seem to have done, so I should give it another try.
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It depends on what you find appealing in a city. For me its winding, narrow, cobbled lanes and historic old-world charm. I found lots in Zagreb.
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I love the way you describe Zagreb and especially the photo slides showing the places and things you’ve seen. Zagreb is really charming!
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Thanks a million! Glad you enjoyed the post.
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Croatia is a beautiful country and it’s great that you think it is under rated. I think there are many places and capitals in Europe like this. Croatia and Slovenia have a real thing for funiculars and I think they do them really well. Loved the journey through Zagreb with you and know that when I get back to Croatia I will visit here.
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The fact that smaller European countries have so much charm minus the snob-value makes them more appealing. Have to explore each of them.
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I’m travelling through Europe at the moment and Zagreb is two stops away, and I honestly can’t wait! Everyone I know that’s been says how little recognition it gets for such a wonderful place! Great post – made me even more excited!
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What great timing..you’re all set to explore Zagreb! Would love to know your reactions to the city.
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Loved these sights. Not that I was not aware of Zagreb but I see that there is far more to it than what I knew. It almost feels like other major cities such as Paris or Vienna in terms of artistic heritage and riches. Croatia is surely the next big thing on the tourist map.
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Croatia has come into the limelight over the past few years and certainly deserves every bit of praise that it gets.
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When I went I was only there for a few days but this post makes me want to plan a return visit. My friends just spent a month there and loved it! There looks like so much to see and do.
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A month is a significant amount of time to feel that you actually live in a city! I bet they got a chance to try tons of different authentic experiences.
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Zagreb looks very elegant with all the amazing architectures in every corner. I love sweets so, I will definitely try some of those delightful fritule.
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Elegant is the right word for Zagreb. Fritule are so yum!
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The last time i was in Zagreb was way back in the 70s when it was still part of Yugoslavia. We used to pass through often on the oerlandtrip down to Athens. It must hae changed alot since then.I would like to try their street food. Sounds delicious.
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I doubt if much has changed in Zagreb over the past few decades. Like most of Europe, at least the old town areas remain unaffected.
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You clearly loved the place, and it seemed to have brought out the adjectives and bons mots in your descriptive prose. Lavender and lace, indeed. I like your idea at the start of presenting the city through selected neighborhoods, thereby giving people targets when they actually visit. And I want to go to the Museum of Broken Relationships, though it probably requires a stiff drink afterwards to cry into. Cheers.
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Thanks a ton, Tom! Como was special and Italy is my favorite country from all angles. You would enjoy the quirkiness of this unusual museum.
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Hungary and Croatia are in my list for 2018. I hope I’ll make it happen! Esp after you say its the most under rated city, I really have to go there! The street food definitely looks yummm… Gornji Grad is just breathtaking! Museum of Broken Relationships??? That’s the weirdest thing I’ve ever heard!!!
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Hungary and Croatia are both great choices for culture/history lovers. You will have a memorable trjp.
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Zagreb looks stunning and unfortunately we only passed through on the way to Plitvice lakes and Dubrovnik last year! We will definitely have to go back one day and spent more time there!
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Time for another visit, just for Zagreb.
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Zagreb is so beautiful!! I feel Croatia in general is very underrated. Had it not been for Game of Thrones, the little limelight that Dubrovnic is getting these days, even that would not have been possible. Loved this virtual tour through your post 😀
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That’s true about Dubrovnik! Hype is what draws people.
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I love going to underrated places! Actually Croatia in general has been on top of my list for a couple of years. That market is exactly the kind of thing I would love. Also the doughnut balls sound tasty! I see the potential here and hope to visit soon!
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So Zagreb is part of your itinerary now !
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I must admit, Zagreb is hands down beautiful and interesting. I m particularly intrigued about the Museum of Broken Relationship. What an idea for a museum. And your first picture of the city totally has me captive.
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Thanks a million! Hope you’re adding it to your Europe list 🙂
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Zagreb looks gorgeous, but I was really intrigued by Dolac market! 80 years old just for a market is amazing! Always love checking out the local markets.
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The sounds, smells and colors of the Dolac market are still fresh in my memory. A great place to soak in local vibes.
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Honestly I will say that I was not aware of Zagreb much and even I don’t remember ever it getting my attention on any matter. But now through your article it drew my attention. This certainly looks very beautiful and can definitely be considered as a place to visit in Europe. Your amazing pictures are even making it more intriguing. Glad that you got to cover not so known destination which turned out to be such an amazing place.
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Despite being a capital city, Zagreb is not known much / visited much. That, in my opinion, makes it the most underrated capital city in Europe.
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Looks like a cute place! So many underrated cities in Europe – especially in Eastern and Central Europe (for me, Dresden, Krakow and Budapest are some examples). These days I read a lot of blogs and articles about Zagreb though – I think the tourists will be flocking in soon!
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I doubt it Zagreb will ever be as overcrowded as the other grander places, but it is charming and lovely.
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I’ve only been to Split but, had a layover in Zagreb. Croatia is such a beautiful country – I feel like everyone forgets about Croatia. I cant wait to go back and get to know it better. It might be the next big travel region!
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Actually, Croatia is getting a lot of limelight these days, but for Split and Dubrovnik. There’s lot more to the country.
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I like that you seem to like cities! I have been to some (not Zagreb) and I kind of liked them but it always pulls me out to the countryside. I like getting to know cities before actually visiting so I can decide if it is my kind of place. I liked that one 🙂 Thank you for the post!
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Cities are wonderful places to weave stories. I love the countryside too..but a good mix of both is ideal for me.
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I personally liked this place and found it really interesting. Wow! The museum of the broken relationship – it is a unique concept and it has really fascinated me. The food too looks good and the Dolac market is captivating. I must say from your pictures, got the virtual tour of the place. Adding this to my list. Thanks for sharing
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Most people skip Zagreb, but it is really atmospheric.
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I actually really liked Zagred, but, for me, it isn’t the most underrated capital in Europe. I would give that title to Tallinn in Estonia. That being said, you make a good case for it, and it’s making me think I ought to go back to Zagreb!
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Tallinn is now very popular and talked about, while Zagreb isn’t. Thats why I think its underrated 🙂
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Yehhh, that is the really wonderful city in Europe. This city looking very neat and Cline. I really like their road. I do not go there but I listen many time this city name. That really wonderful city.There all picture is looking awesome. I enjoy your post. Thanks for sharing your post.
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Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed the post 🙂
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I love those places that aren’t on every tourist’s list. I’ve heard Croatia is beautiful and have wanted to go there for a long time. Your stories and pictures make me more eager than ever.
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Croatia is still relatively unexplored. You may enjoy my other posts on Split, Plivtice and Dubrovnik too 🙂
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I always love hearing about the lesser know destinations. I think as travelers, we seek out places that we hear of more often, and pass over the hidden gems. Thanks for sharing.
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Trends in travel are dangerous. I think one should just follow one’s heart.
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I did like Zagreb, especially because of the thousands of outdoor cafes and lively streets but I’ve to confess – it was my least favorite city in Croatia. There were so many other cities to explore and so much history, natural beauty in other parts that even though I liked Zagreb (it was the first city I went to in Croatia because my flight landed there), the more I went out and about, beyond the capital, the better it got!
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Zagreb certainly does not stand in competition with the smaller towns of Croatia like Split, Zadar or Dubrovnik. However, as a capital city, it tends to et overlooked and treated as just a stopover. In my opinion, it has a lot to offer.
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I’ve been to almost all the places you covered. Your post is amazing. My memories of Zagreb is refreshed. You may also like to check out my memories of Zagreb here http://moonlitekingdom.com/zagreb-travel-guide-top-things-zagreb-moonlitekingdom/
Hope u like it !:)
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Thank you! Glad my post helped you refresh your Zagreb memories 🙂 Will check out your post.
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