Zagreb’s most surprising architectural gem…
Lovingly encased within seven acres of lush landscaped gardens, Miragoj Cemetery figures as one the top 20 must-visit places in the Croatia’s capital, Zagreb. The final resting place of 300,000 souls from diverse religions, created by architect Hermann Bollé, is one of Europe’s most beautiful cemeteries.
A mere 10-minute bus journey from Kaptol in Zagreb’s Upper Town will take you conveniently to this remarkable landmark. The ogling will commence even as you roll along that endless, monumental brick wall draped with green-red ivy leaves. And as you cross the street towards the entrance, you will have to peel your eyes away from the 20 gorgeous onion-shaped lime-green onion cupolas crowning the wall. Be careful not to stub your toe on the sidewalk or knock over a dustbin. Indulge your eyes with the sight of the central dome of the Church of Christ the King that dominates the entryway. More drama waits to unfold inside.
Beyond the gate, for nearly a half a mile to the left and right, lies a stunning Neo-Renaissance arcade. Pause at the elegant archway visible through the thick clumps of ivy carpeting the wall and let your eyes travel all the way to the end of the arcade. Your feet will guide you further. Impossible to resist a closer look at those decorative tiled floors, fine cast-iron lanterns, carved columns and graceful statues….all classic reminders of a museum! Pinch yourself as a reminder…this is a cemetery!
As you step outside to admire the entire structure yet again, consider the miracle…all this survived the massive earthquake of 1880, when more than 1700 houses in the neighbourhood were heavily damaged!
But the real treasure of Miragoj lies in its sprawling gardens. What a stroke of genius that the city council not only acquired this stunning property from Ljudevit Gaj (Croatian reformer and poet), for use as a cemetery in 1872, but also retained and expanded the green expanses.
Stroll along the numerous walking paths of this magnificent park to experience it in all its glory. Trace the shadows as the sun plays hide-and-seek under the tall chestnut, lime, maple and spruce trees. Find the birds that chirrup from among the dense bunches of leaves and feel the gentle breeze that ruffles your hair.
Chapels and mausoleums lie scattered around. Scan the lanes and lanes of graves, big and small, some enclosed within decorative grills, some with steps leading up, some mentioning multiple names of family members. Some graced with candles and flowers left by loving family and friends. Others as if they had been unvisited since years. You may identify tombstones of Franjo Tuđman, the first president of the Republic of Croatia, basketball player Drazen Petrovic. Many prominent citizens including poets, scientists, writers and politicians, are also buried here.
Depending on how you look at it, the walk is calming or disturbing. You certainly cannot ignore the fact that its a burial ground. Thousands and thousands of graves, spread over acres of lovely gardens. You wonder if visitors ever get lost in here…there don’t seem to be many directions or signboards.
When you finally exit the Cemetery gate, maybe you will encounter a hearse arriving quietly, accompanied by a procession of solemn faces. The guard at the gate will ring a rope-bell to announce their arrival. You wait for them to pass through and the overriding thought in your mind is this. Miragoj is peaceful, artistic and graceful…like the rest of the city. And why not? The deceased deserve it!
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Looks like an interesting cemetery, thanks for sharing!
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Do visit if you get a chance while in Croatia.
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While it looks peaceful, I surely wouldn’t want to get lost there 🙂
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Its quite a lovely walk during the day, I’m not sure about dark 🙂
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What a beautiful place to rest the departed soul! One might feel strange walking in there but I guess the sprawling lawn and beautiful architecture may pull them in ….. I loved the pic of the arched pathway surrounded by Ivy like a frame
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You said it all 🙂 The architecture and the parks were the main draws for me.
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I think this may just be the most beautiful cemetery I have seen yet…
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It probably is! Seeing Zagreb without Miragoj will be incomplete.
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I must confess I like visiting this kind of cemetery. I don’t find them macabre but peaceful. Thank you for your tip!
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It certainly was very peaceful. We went in the afternoon, when the sun was peeking from behind the trees. Lovely.
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This was very interesting! I have never been to Croatia but now this gives me an extra place to put on my list!
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Croatia has tons of wonders. You can read my posts on Split, Dubrovnik and Plitvice if you need more inspiration 🙂
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What a beautiful cemetery! Back in Paris, we used to stroll through the Père-Lachaise and the Montparnasse cemeteries. Last year in Savannah, Georgia, we also visited and liked the Bonaventure Cemetery. So we’ll definitely visit the Miragoj when we go to Zagreb. Like you said: the deceased also deserve it. 🙂
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Now that I have visited Miragoj, I don’t mind exploring other interesting cemeteries. Made a note of the ones you mentioned.
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Looks more like a park than a cemetary. I find cemetaries generally a perfect place to walk when I’m in a new place (especially abroad) – they tell you quite a lot about people and their culture.
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It is a cemetery converted out of a huge garden complex, actually.
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Hey, Punita! Nice to see your post about Mirogoj, since it is my fav place in Zagreb. I am completely aware that liking cemeteries in general could sound weird to some people, but I like cemeteries because of their serenity and the stories they tell.
xoxo, Milijana
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Its not at all weird, but so commendable that you manage to look beyond the usual and find beauty in cemeteries. 🙂
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I’m yet to visit Zagreb but this cemetery looks very impressive. It reminds me a bit of the one in Milan which also has a huge garden. How long would you recommend for the visit?
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We haven’t been to the one in Milan. Miragoj is just 10-15 minutes from Old Town Zagreb, so depending on how long you linger in the park, 2-3 hours should be more than enough for the trip.
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Great post. Many cities have great cemeteries/parks and most people don’t know about them.
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Thank you so much! And Miragoj is specially worth knowing about.
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That is a beautiful cemetery. The gardens and the walls are just beautiful.
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Thanks so much, Gokul. Glad you liked the post.
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When I was reading this post I imagined that this place is worth of shooting hundreds of movies there. It looks so authentic!
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It is the most perfect cemetery. Not to be missed.
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not gonna lie, this kind of stuff creeps me out! But the buildings do look beautiful.
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I share your sentiments. But Miragoj is in a different league, altogether.
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One cemetery, so many stories! I really love the character that Zagreb has, something to look forward to on my next visit!
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It is really extraordinary. I couldn’t help comparing it to Hindu cremation grounds and wondering about the stark differences.
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Wait, what? This is a cemetery? This looks more like a park than a cemetery! And I am surprised how much stories it has!
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And that’s why I could even think of exploring it..
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Wow, this place looks amazing! the architecture, the plants, everything. I can’t believe it is a cemetery. lol . So much to see in this place!
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Glad you enjoyed the post!
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I like how the entire church’s wall is covered with greenery! Totally love the architecture! I do like to stroll in the cemeteries of the old churches, its such a different experience esp to see those centuries old tombstones.
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I don’t usually visit cemeteries, but this one left a lasting impression on me.
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Looks so elegant with how the architectural designs are built. Beautiful and serene.
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The architecture inspired me to visit, more than anything else.
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I’m not particularly in to exploring cemeteries. Probably because I spent way to much time in one as a kid – my grandparents watched me a lot and my grandma was obsessed with visiting her family members and watering the flowers multiple times a week. But I do love that one photo that looks like a tunnel overgrown with vines.
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I know what you mean. I’m not a cemetery-visiting person myself. But Miragoj is quite unlike any cemetery, so I made an exception.
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I’m surprised—a pretty cemetary! Most general cemeteries in the U.S. are pretty plain.
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That’s what makes Miragoj special..
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wow, looks so much more interesting than the cemeteries I’ve ever seen!
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It is quite a piece of art.
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Such a beautiful place for people to rest! Quite a scenic cemetery I must say. Loved your capture of the arches at the entrance , well done with that.
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One can spend a few hours capturing the beauty of this place. We didn’t stay too long, though.
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Wow, I have never seen a cemetery like this. Amazing! Exploring local cemeteries is one of my favorite things to do when I travel. You learn so much about the local history and culture. Love it!
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Plus, this one is not at all eerie.
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One of the most beautiful cemeteries I have ever seen. The building so nice, I like the architecture and the gardens are so well kept and so peaceful. It doesn’t look like a cemetery at all.
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The entrance is quite dramatic, architecturally, and then inside its the huge park that draws your attention.
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I do sometimes visit cemeteries when traveling, I found it interesting to see how different cemeteries look around the world and how each of them can tell a story… like this one. Thanks for sharing!
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You do? Which are some of the best ones you’ve explored?
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I actually didn’t have time to check this out while I was in Zagreb, I guess I’ve got to go back!
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A good reason to…
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I have yet to make it to Zagreb, but when I go I will definitely check out this cemetery. I love wandering among them, even if I can’t read the inscriptions.
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This one is more like a massive park, but the tombstones do stand out…
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I’ve been to the cemetery and I completely agree with you that it’s one of the greatest architectural gems of Zagreb. I almost didn’t go because it’s outside of town, but it’s really easy to get to, and it’s really worth it.
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Absolutely worth it! Did you spend a lot of time?
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Probably we were there for just over an hour.
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That’s more or less how much time we explored it for too.
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Usually, I avoid going to cemeteries and doomed places on my trips but loved the architecture of Zagreb. The garden looks quite splendid too!
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Me too! This one was an exception, but I’m glad I conquered my inhibitions.
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I’ve actually developed a keen interest in cemetary tourism recently – I find that they’re the most peaceful places in town – I also find that most are beautiful, artful, and come with beautiful gardens like Miragoj Cemetery – it’s often very interesting to see the architecture and artwork on tombstones dating back hundreds of years.
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Actually, this is the first one I have visited, and the walk was quite an experience 🙂
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Wow this is such a beautiful cemetery, I wish we had more time when we were in Zagreb to see this amazing structure and its gardens, and not just passing through!
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Maybe another time…
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Great writing. Interesting perspective on a walk through the cemetary. How many days did you get to spend in Zagreb? I was there so many years ago but did not have a chance to see this place. I was very young, of course shopping was much more interesting to me at the time!
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Thanks a million. We were in Zagreb for 4 days and visited Plitvice too. Zagreb city itself is fabulous too.
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It looks like a beautiful place to visit. The architecture is amazing and they are so lucky to have it. I had never heard about this place when I visited Zagreb, would of loved to have seen 🙂
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If you get a chance to visit Zagreb again, do go to Miragoj.
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Well-maintained cemeteries are always a good park to visit for peace and quiet.
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I haven’t been to many, but this one is special.
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What a beautiful post, I’ve never thought to post about a cemetery, yet they are some of the most fascinating places we visit around the world.
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Thank you so much! Miragoj was an impromptu decision..it looked way too beautiful to miss.
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The cemetery has been done with lots of care! It looks so peaceful within, but yes can be disturbing too. May be one can decide a favorable time of the day to visit.
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Anytime during the daytime is peaceful. I wasn’t very comfortable venturing deep inside, but people were walking all around.
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Absolutely incredible the building survived that massive earthquake. Divine intervention? I actually find cemeteries really peaceful. I used to think they were a bit scary but after losing some loved ones I began to see it as a place of respect, peace and honour. Some might think we are weird, but John and I occasionally like to walk through cemeteries even if we have no relatives or friends buried there – to observe, to see those who have lived before us, try to figure out their stories, and pay respects to those whose gravestones are damaged or run down – the graves perhaps forgotten by others.
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I don’t think its weird, however, one does need to get over some inhibitions to spend time in a cemetery. It can be quite relaxing, actually.
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Well now I’m sad that I didn’t see this when I was in Zagreb! Thanks for sharing your experience and lovely photos.
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Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂 Hope you go to Zagreb soon!
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I would have never guessed this was a cemetery. This looks fascinating. I would totally walk through and take pictures as well.
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I could never have imagined myself doing that anywhere else, but this was Miragoj.
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Visiting a cemetery is on my itinerary in every city. Mirogoj must be one of my favorite cemeteries in the world. Imposing and peaceful at the same time. Thanks for bringing back the memories!
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Miragoj was not on our list originally, but after seeing the pictures, we couldn’t resist adding it.
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What a beautiful resting place! I had no idea it was there when I was in Zagreb!
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Miragoj is comparatively lesser known, but many people visit it.
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Just a small correction: it’s MirOgoj. 😉
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Oops!
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