A magical day at the Alhambra
Moorish mystique on your mind? Then pick Granada…the last Muslim kingdom of Spain, which survived even after surrender of major cities like Cordoba, Seville, and Toledo to invasions during the Reconquista. Thanks to a treaty with the Christian kingdoms (gold in exchange for independence) and the exceptional strategic position of the Granada fort, Alhambra, the Nasr emirs had held on till 1492, when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella claimed the city. In 1502, Islam was officially outlawed in Granada and by early 1600s, not a single Muslim was left in all of Spain.
Start your day tour with a couple of relaxing hours in the Generalife (‘garden of paradise’), a beautiful terraced network of arched rose gardens and cypress hedges, delicate fountains and water stairways, carefully-clipped bushes and fragrant flowers, crunching gravel paths and crossing jets in water canals. A place of rest for the Muslim royalty indeed, this decorative garden overflows with fruit and vegetable patches. In these shady corridors, nobles would have plotted schemes, sultanas would have had illicit liaisons with knights and emirs would have contemplated the future of their kingdoms. Intrigue is still in the air! You can smell it.
Then trudge along the long route to the Alhambra complex. Alhambra comes from the Arabic words ‘qa’lat al-Hamra’, meaning ‘red castle’ (from the dusty red stone used to build its thick walls). Aren’t you dying of curiosity already? Hundreds of incredible Arabic myths are associated with this staggeringly beautiful creation proudly atop a high perch, framed against the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountain-range. You see it, but it seems like an illusion!
One of the most beautiful buildings in the world and probably the most popular destination in Spain, the Alhambra is a wonderful opportunity to compare Muslim and Western architectural styles, side by side. Many of the buildings have been destroyed, but there are two beautiful towers to climb, including Torre de la Vela (watchtower) for lovely views across the city of Granada below and the Alcazaba, a fortress with several towers.
Stop first at the massive palace of Carlos V, the most important work of the Renaissance style in Spain…an epic grandeur in granite, befitting the imperial title of the Holy Roman Emperor. Outside, as you rest on the long stone bench hemming the square-shaped palace, reach out to touch the cushioned stone walls with prominent pilasters inserted with large bronze rings to tie up horses. Parking zone, huh?
Inside, stroll along the 30-metre diameter, circular two-story courtyard open to the sky surrounded by a wide portico with 32 stone-made pillars. Impressive, until you reach the other parts of the Alhambra. Carlos’ home is majestic, but bigger man-made wonders await ahead!
The Nasrid Palace, is comparatively intimate and labyrinthine, not as monumental, but definitely the most beautiful Muslim building you may have visited. Remarkable condition too, considering its 13th-century lineage and subsequent destruction. You can feel the undying spirit of the beautiful courtyards filled with sparkling water; tall chambers overflowing with intricate, geometric Arabic tiling, elaborate ante-rooms packed with stucco-work etched onto dark walls and mesmeric alcoves. The Sala de Dos Hermanas, with its huge central dome and star-like constellations; the Sala de los Reyes, with padded, leather-lined ceilings and the magnificent Salon de Embajadores (throne-room), with an ornate wooden ceiling representing the seven Islamic heavens…all leave you stupefied.
In the adjoining palace built by Mohammed V – the Palacio de los Leones (of the lions), set around the world-famous Patio de los Leones, water trickled from the mouths of 12 marble lions (in those days, water flows out of the mouth of each lion one by one, every hour!). The Palace is adorned by lyric verses inscribed in beautiful, cursive Arab calligraphy…like lace and crochet it ran along walls, framed doorways, outlined windows and embedded stuccoed, arabesque tapestries atop vibrant, multicoloured wainscotings of ceramic tiles (azulejos). The most common inscription is the Nasrid motto: “There is no victor but Allah.”
Study the abstract, sensuous arabesque mosaic that you cannot decipher…intricate, repetitive, symmetrical patterns of intertwined vine tendrils, grapes, clover, tulips, roses, almond blossoms, pine cones and palm leaves. Emptiness glares from where tiles have fallen, paint has peeled and stuccos have broken. What would have the original, brand new palace looked like centuries ago, when every inch was covered impeccably? Can any modern building gleaming with glass and metal even dare to compete in design excellence, even with this semi-maintained flashback in its ‘guess-what-it-once-looked-like’ state?
Peaceful inner courtyards are filled with sounds of fountains, feel of water mist, aroma of exotic flowers and reflections in mirror-like ponds. Water is an ornament everywhere, so precious for the Islamic world, the purest symbol of life…like the blood to veins. Ponder on the hot and cold water facilities in the Arabic baths…an element of daily life as well as a social activity!
Set within gardens of myrtle and lemon trees, is this idyllic pleasure palace with ceilings of gold, lapis lazuli and ivory and white marble floors, overlooking a city blessed with unending supplies of figs, pomegranates, palms, olives, saffron, almonds, raisins, meat and trout! Peer through the intricate lattice of a Moorish window. The trilling of a flute from a courtyard…a veiled harem girl with wide, kohl laden eyes padding along a cool corridor…a fierce warrior riding his spirited steed through the gate…the scent of a rare perfume in a room laden with precious carpets and silken cushions…ambassadors bringing terms from foreign rules and battle tales being recounted in great halls? No, nothing remains, the inhabitants of the palace are long gone. But you can feel their shadows still lurking around. That’s Granada for you!
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I’ve wanted to go to the Alhambra since I was in middle school! My husband and I keep attempting to plan a trip to Spain to see it, but we haven’t managed to actually get there for one reason or another. One day, I will get there! Your photos are gorgeous and make me even more excited to finally get there one day. 🙂
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I have more inspiration waiting for you in my posts on Flamenco and Cordoba. You can find these two on my blog, using the Search Box. 🙂
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The whole of Andalucia is on my bucket list, can’t wait to go! I just love places with such immense mixture of cultures, such as South Spain or the former Constantinople. They always create such important legacy to mankind and the world’s history in general. Thanks for the post on Granada, it will come useful when I do visit! So impatient! 😀
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Thank you so much. I have a separate post on Cordoba, in case it interests you. Thats another jewel of Andalusia.
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Oh, I’ll look it up, heard so many great things about Cordoba! Thanks. 🙂
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So much of the old charm in these pictures of Alhambra. History and architecture fascinate me any day and I think Granada would be a place to enjoy totally!
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Its one of my favorite memories of grand palace complexes.
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Such a beautiful place. Love the architecture and the history is superb. I have been looking at doing a tour of Granada and I want to do it even more after reading your post
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Thanks so much for that lovely comment. 🙂
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This post brought back some great memories. I remember visiting the Alhambra many moons ago and is one of the best places I have ever seen. Love the charm of the place and the views towards the mountains. Great post 🙂
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Granada leaves an indelible impression on the mind.
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I’ve been to almost every country in Europe except Spain! Thanks for sharing these great photos of another enticing reason to get me there!
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You will enjoy Spain. Its magnificent.
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I did like Granada, but I loved Cordoba and Seville even more. I couldn’t connect with Granada and the palace in Seville impressed me so much more than the Alhambra.
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Seville’s Alhambra is definitely stunning as well. I think both are very different. Granada complex is on a much larger scale.
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I can’t believe I have only just heard about the Alhambra recently! The history of this place sounds so fascinating and the architecture is stunning, it’s definitely on our list of places to visit now!
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So now you have a reason to visit Spain. I recommend Cordoba too..there’s a separate blog post on my site for that.
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Spectacular – I’ve wanted to go to Alhambra for quite sometime, as it’s quite a critical place in classical history. Thanks for sharing this – and your writing is lovely!
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Thank your for such a generous comment 🙂
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Very interesting about it being the best place to compare Muslim and Western architectural styles, haven’t heard of this place before! Great photos!
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Another superlative example of this merger is Cordoba. You can refer to a separate post on that in my blog.
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It is really intriguing that a Muslim monument is the No. 1 attraction in a non-Muslim city like Granada. I can definitely see why since its interior and exterior, the architecture and the gardens look flawless!!
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The lineage of the palace speaks for itself. It hails from the time when Muslim was the dominant force.
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Looks like a fun place to explore! But it also looks like it can be a little crowded with tourists. How long did it take you to explore the whole place?
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It took us 3-4 hours in all. I tend to shut out tourists from my line of vision. It works. 🙂
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I always thought the Alhambra was such a romantic name – now I see that the reality is even more amazing! The incredible detail and fabulous colours of this fantastic structure are so much better than I imagined. Thanks for the tour!
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Yes, it is really a fantastic example of medieval architecture. Specially if you love history.
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The amount of detail that went into all aspects of the building are amazing. The gardens do look like a peaceful place for contemplation and relaxation. I always enjoy visiting historic places, and with just a little bit of imagination you can be transported back in time yourself.
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Alhambra it’s not a place of my point of interest, however, Granada, itself is definitely a place I would love to explore in the future. 🙂
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Granada is a lovely town too!
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So much of the focus on Spain centres around Barcelona (not surprisingly) but I am always impressed when I get to find out about some of the smaller cities. This looks exactly the type of place we love to explore.
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Andalusia is the cultural and historic side of Spain. If that’s what interests you more, its unmissable. If you like, refer to my post on Cordoba too.
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What a magical city. Love the architecture esp the Nasrid Palace. How long does it take to explore the whole place.
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It takes 2-3 hours for the entire palace complex, but if you prefer a leisurely pace, as long as you like.
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Alhambra looks like a magic spot. The curvy architecture is so alluring. It looks like a photographer’s delight. I’d love to visit.
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Yes, absolutely. I wonder how many more hours I would spend the second time.
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The Alhambra looks really grandiose and exquisite. Always been fascinated with the history of the Moors and this place seems to resonate to this in all its splendour. Would love to visit here someday.
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Moorish culture seeps into every aspect of Andalusia. The region is a history traveller’s dream.
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Wow what a cool palace! It’s actually on my bucket list to visit here so thanks for the information 🙂
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Hope you enjoy it as much as we did 🙂 Do add Cordoba too…I have a separate post on that in my blog.
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This looks awesome! You got some really good pictures. I have always wanted to go to Granada and this just reminds me that I need to make it a priority!
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Thank you. Unfortunately, we lost our camera in Spain and had to make do with stills on handycam. With a better camera, the pictures would be so much higher quality.
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I can only imagine living here as a sultana and strolling the gardens (and having illicit affairs:) The place has fairy tale written all over it!
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Just the kind of way my mind works too 🙂
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The detail is absolutely stunning and you’re right, I’m not sure it could be made the same way today. So much thought must have gone into these buildings and surrounding areas. I always find myself staring at buildings like these!
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And I get lost in my daydreams…
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I’ve never visited this area of Spain, but would love to see the mix of Islamic and Western architecture in person, especially all of the intricate tile work. I’ve heard great things about Alhambra and it would make for a great Spanish holiday.
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Andalusia, specially, is a great place to explore Moorish architecture and traditions.
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The fantastic workmanship is brilliantly captured by you Punita 👌…..
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Thank you so much! It was larger than life.
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Wow! Very beautiful architecture. Thanks for sharing this place in Granada. It would be very interesting to see muslim architecture in the place where there is Christian majority. I love how it compliment to each other.
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Andalusia will surprise you with gems of this kind everywhere. Also consider Cordoba. I have a separate post on my blog.
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I’ve been wanting to visit Alhambra ever since I studied about them in art history! The sculptural marvel is just wow! To see them with my own eyes there would definitely leave me speechless!
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You would surely be fascinated by Granada since you are history and architecture fan.
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We regret not making it to Granada during our visit to Spain. The architecture and artwork on the buildings are so immaculately awe-inspiring. We would love to visit and see them in person, bookmarked for future.
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There’s always another time. Did you visit Cordoba? That’s a great choice too.
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THis summer I will go to Valencia, but on my next trip Alhambra is on the list. Really enjoyed your post.
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Glad you enjoyed the post. Haven’t been to Valencia, but have heard great things about it.
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This is so high on our bucket-list! The pictures you took are so beautiful. Would definitely be a great place to visit, but probably not in the hottest time of the year for sure!
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I would recommend autumn. It would be perfect then.
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I’m massively ignorant on this part of the world. With Spain being one of our closest neighbours we Brits overlook it. But places like this, I love. Thanks for the education!
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Spain is such a great country, with oodles of culture and heritage, color and cuisine. One of my favorites.
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Beautiful monuments and spectacular landscapes – Spanish cities are very charming. They are so easily accessible but run over by the tourists. To avoid it I’d recommend to visit it in winter 🙂 I love the gardens and the mix in architecture!
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I agree. We always go in the shoulder season to avoid the crowds.
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Such stunning architecture and your photographs capture it beautifully. It’s great to see history preserved so well and to be able to walk amongst it today bringing the stories to life, I hated history lessons at school but it is one of the most incredible aspects of travel.
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We have something in common then. Only after we started traveling, I discovered how much I’m enamoured by history.
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The Moorish history of Spain is so fascinating, I feel like going back to country just to explore this. Granada would certainly top my list and looking at your post, I think I might have to spend a few days exploring it…
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For me, Moorish heritage is definitely the most attractive element of Spain. And Andalusia is the perfect region to drown deeper in that.
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Your pictures are amazing especially the featured image. I had never thought about visiting Granada but Alhambra has fascinated me enough. So much of history and the architectures looks spectacular. I will be adding this place to my travel bucket list. Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks so much for your comment 🙂 I hope you are able to go soon and experience this wonderful palace complex for yourself.
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What amazing photos! I’m sold that this is a city worth a visit.
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Isn’t it? Granada is a real treasure.
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You’re making me grin, remembering the full day I spent wandering around the Alhambra! What a place. I love your line, “What would have the original, brand new palace looked like centuries ago, when every inch was covered impeccably? Can any modern building gleaming with glass and metal even dare to compete in design excellence?” Amen.
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Thanks so much. So my post helped you relive all your memories. Seems like you felt the same way about Granada as I did.
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I had no idea what Granada looked like, but it’s gorgeous. And the Nasrid Palace…wow! Consider me blown away.
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Visiting Granada was an extraordinary experience for us.
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I think Alhambra caught my fancy in this entire post. It truly is lovely and one of those rare blends of European and Muslim architecture. Every corner there seems fascinating. Well captured.
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Ami, since you are a fan of heritage, you would surely enjoy Granada.
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I really want to go to Granada so bad! I’m studying Spanish Literature and I really want to go there so bad, especially Granada! I agree with you, Granada is the perfect place to see the more moorish side of Spain!
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They say if you can dream it, you can do it! I’m sure you’ll get there soon 🙂
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I thought this was the Water Gardens of Dorne from Game of Thrones at first. But after some research, I learnt that King Peter based his designs for Alcazar (the actual GoT location) on Alhambra.
Hardly surprised he was inspired as it looks like an amazing place to visit. Like you said, I can only imagine how amazing it would have looked when it was brand new.
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inspired is right! This palace cast a spell on me 🙂
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This was an amazing post to read! Keep up the awesome work!
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Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it.
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Great architecture…
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Thanks!
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Thank you!
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I really enjoyed your post and wish one day i can go there with my family to see these wonderful photos as real places.
Thanks for sharing your experience there.
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Thank you so much! Hope you are able to go soon..
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A great collection of pictures!
The Alhambra is amazing and a must-see!!! The best moorish palace to see. But besides Granada has so much more to offer. So come to Granada and enjoy your stay!
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Thank you! Ours was a short visit, so we couldn’t explore the city. But I have heard great things about it..
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You convinced me that Grenada is a must visit destination for Moorish Spain. I always just assumed that the Moors retreated north to south and eventually just left through Gibraltar. I could see why a mountain stronghold could hold out longer. Oh and the Alhambra is absolutely stunning.
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Thank you! We could not much spend time in Granada, do plan for detailed exploration outside of the Alhambra too.
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