Finding the soul of the city…
France’s second city drips with so much charm that you will gush about it to everyone you meet, specially those who are infatuated by Paris. The two cities have much in common…grand opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums. But Lyon offers you more: ancient Roman ruins, exemplary cuisine and quality of life, all cloaked in a gracious air of modesty. Tempted to read on?
The best way to connect with the soul of the city is to spend a full day in the UNESCO world heritage site of Vieux Lyon. I recommend you to hire an audio guide from the tourist centre at Bellacour and transform your walk into an enchanting history lesson. As you switch on the audio tour, cross one of the bridges over the Saone to reach the foot of the Fourvière Hill. Trace the contours of the hilltop cathedral and decide whether you love/hate the idea of that Eiffel-clone (now a TV tower). Now consider the surprising legacy going back to 43 B.C. when Romans established Lugdunum (city of crows), the capital of Roman Gaul for 300 years! Hmm…not many crows here now, but isn’t that name fascinating?
The first landmark to stop at is the Saint John Cathedral at Place Neuve St.-Jean, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to 1180. In the square outside, stands a beautiful fountain in the centre, crowned by a Neo-Renaissance styled temple-like structure within which nestles a sculpture of Christ’s baptism. Lean over to touch the water trickling into one of the four stone bowls of the fountain. This was once the water of life for inhabitants of ancient Vieux Lyon! Drink up…it’s potable perfect.
Admire the mélange of architectural styles inside…Romanesque to flamboyant Gothic, and I dare you not to gawk at the remarkable stained-glass rose window. Look for the famous for the 14th century astronomical clock built by monks to calculate their feast days. This engineering masterpiece was designed to last only 700 years…it is expected to stop working by 2019. Play the guessing game…will it, won’t it?
Back in the square, crowning the hill in front of you, is the majestic Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere. The cathedral can be reached either by a steep-staircase street or the convenient Funicular. Make a choice. Its a charming, but lung-straining walk up. On the other hand, you may just encounter a group of naughty school children in French berets in the funicular. If they happen to scream their lungs out in mock fear when the funicular stops midway in pitch dark, don’t jump out of your skin. You had fair warning!
Up on the hill, the grand Notre Dame Basilica (with its four towers, a tall bell tower and a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary on the top), will dazzle you with its pristine whiteness. Another UNESCO world heritage site, built in 1870s, that attracts over 1.5 million visitors each year, and for good reason. It stands where the former Roman Forum used to be…another unusual slice of history.
The exterior offers no hint about the magnificence that lies within. Prepare to swoon over wall-to-wall-to-ceiling mosaics in shimmering gold and pastels, intricate marble work and stunning stained glass filling every inch, ornate archways and ceilings covered in gold leaf. Clearly one of the most opulent basilicas you would have ever seen. Survey every nook and cranny. Drown in the splendour. Shake your head in disbelief. Then, once you’re back from divine heaven, take a trip to the crypt of Sainte-Jean or a hike up 287 steps to the observatory for a magnificent panoramic view.
Then wander over to the church’s terrace for astounding views of Vieux Lyon, the old town below, and the modern city dissected by its two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône in the distance. Seek out the archaeological area with ancient Roman remnants, including the ruins of a 10,000-seat amphitheater (the oldest in France), the foundations of a temple and the Musée Gallo-Roman, with statues, bronzes and mosaics from ancient times. This bird’s eye view will whet your appetite to explore the second-largest Renaissance district in the world.
So head back down, and stroll around the narrow cobbled streets, lined with arty boutiques, galleries and inviting restaurants leading to picturesque squares. Observe the charming details the audio guide won’t point out: solid oak doors with ornate brass carvings, old-style rainwater pipes, antique roof chimneys, pretty curved oil lanterns and hidden alleys with criss-crossing strings of fluttering paper leaflets. This area was once the centre of the silk industry and the home to Lyon’s silk workers had as many as 180,000 looms. Today, only a fraction remain, but tourists continue to flock drawn by the area’s character and charm.
The air is filled with the pleasant sound of chatter. In this part of the city of just under 500,000, you will be deep conscious of the French art of living…the meaningful things that matter to the French: food, wine, culture, friends and family. It would be a crime to not eat at one of the Lyonnais bouchons, those small bistros that serve outstanding traditional cuisine in communal style. Once rustic family-run taverns used to feed the silk factory workers, they are now frequented by locals, tourists, elite and public figures alike. Not all bouchons are authentic, so pick one with a sign stating ‘Authentique Bouchon Lyonnais’ and sit at one of the outdoor tables under the typical red awning. Spend an hour over a leisurely lunch…after all, this is the country’s gastronomic capital…relish the moment in every way you can. Thankfully, in France, they don’t get you the cheque unless you ask for it, so linger, wait for the pitter patter of the rain to subside.
The best is yet to come: Lyon’s traboules, famed secret narrow passages connecting the old streets through buildings. Originally built to transport silk safely to the waterway, they were used by the Resistance in war time too. About 200 are hidden away in Fourvière as well as the Croix-Rousse area (old silk weaver’s quarter). Its like a treasure hunt, opening a door to discover a traboule. Look for a plaque marking the entrance, (most are behind unmarked doors) and just walk in. You may feel like an intruder…invading the privacy of the residents, standing there in the middle of a beautiful courtyard, with its sixteenth-century spiral staircase and balconies. A resident may look out the window and smile at you graciously…so revel freely in the heritage that is part of her everyday existence.
Continue to roam around, explore the long climbing stairways that open onto sprawling vistas, the squares that suddenly appear and the never-ending row of shops and traditional biscuiteries tucked into every corner. Stop for that essential coffee break and let the liveliness permeate through your very core. By the time its evening, your heart is beating in sync with Vieux Lyon, and you don’t want to leave just yet. The magnetism of everyday life is irresistible…a man carrying a loaf of bread, a lady packing up her art shop, a lone guitarist on the steps of a small church lost in his own music. Restaurants are getting ready for night business as you pass by, waiters are holding out menus and inviting you, maybe offering an early bird discount. Stay on. Choose a traditional creperie this time for a quintessential French meal.
Finally, when you exit the old town, you will find yourself lingering on at the river banks. The moon will throw its own bluish tinge on the Saone and the sheen of its broad powdery scatter will stand out from amongst all the myriad colors of the lights reflected on the waters. Give in to the tranquil allure. And you will feel what I felt…at home in Lyon, its hallowed history, its charming culture and its fantastic food. Could the day be more perfect?
This place looks great! I haven’t been to France yet but I do love the littler European towns. And that architecture, wow!
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I had no idea Lyon was this lovely, before we went there.
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Wow, Lyon is so gorgeous! There are so many beautiful smaller French cities that I’d love to go to. I love cities on the water – they’re just so lovely and calming.
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Cities on the water are my favorite too. And this one has two rivers…Rhone and Saone.
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Just looking at your photos makes me want to go to Lyon – what a pretty town! Loving the cobblestone alleyways and the pastel buildings. I would definitely enjoy just walking around admiring the ancient architecture – very nice!
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The pastel buildings are the best! You must make it to Lyon…
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I have heard so much about this beautiful place and your post just confirms that. Heading to Paris next year, will try to make it here as well
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And you will love it, I’m sure.
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I love the charm of French towns and Lyon has been high on my visit list for years now – I always seem to miss out on it for one reason or another. It really looks beautiful and as you rightly said one simply has to experience the simple pleasures of French living like their food, drinks, wine, the small cafes and art and architecture.
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I hope you make it, next time you go to France 🙂
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I have only been to Paris in France but now I definitely need to go back to visit Lyon. It looks absolutely gorgeous!
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You have a new reason, and a great one at that!
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I would love just to wander around in this town. The crepe looks so delicious! This place looks safe and would like to eat in one the restaurants here.
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Like all cities in Europe, this one too, is best explored on foot.
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That river view of Lyon is just stunning. I have only been there in summer time but during the winter it must be a very romantic city as well. Outside dinner is the best! Great photos!
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We went in October and it was perfect, as it is in every place around the world at that time.
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I’m ashamed that I still haven’t visited Lyon! I’ve lived in France for almost two years now, I travel frequently and my partner is french – but we both have yet to visit this beautiful gastronomic city! Thanks for sharing these lovely photos. The architecture in the Old town looks amazing.
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The whole of France is stunning, and Lyon is a dream. I’m sure you’ll get around to it soon enough 🙂
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Photos are really amazing. I was not aware of Lyon otherwise I would have visited last year during my Euro Trip. Now I think I have missed one of the good city
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Aww…there’s always another time.
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What a beautiful city! I’ve never made it to Lyon, which is a shame, since it’s arguably the food capital of France and has direct train service from London! Love your writing style too. An interesting way to present a perfect day in Lyon! Love the pics as well!
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Thank you so much! Appreciate your comment. Hope you are able to go visit and discover it for yourself.
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I have heard of Lyon, but had no idea it was such a fascinating destination. I must visit the lovely UNESCO chuches, and exploring the traboules sounds like an adventure in the making!
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Oh, it is even more fascinating that it reads. A must-visit.
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The old town of Lyon sounds so dreamy to walk through. I love when you say that everything is French there and that the food is really authentic. I have been to France this year and actually eaten in a traditional creperie. It was an outstanding experience 🙂
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France is certainly known for its fine food and experiencing French cuisine in France, specially in Lyon, is a huge travel takeaway.
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I loved the traboules in Lyon – was a fascinating place. I’d go by anytime.
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And if you don’t know about them, they’re not even visible, that’s the most charming part of it all. They have to be discovered.
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Lovely Lyon! I wish I had ventured into this part of France. The monuments are grand and the interiors look mesmerizing!
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The entire country is a dream. Most people don’t go beyond Paris, but the amount of variety that France has, is amazing.
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One day for all these sights and architecture.. and it seems easy to squeeze in the schedule for a Europe trip. 🙂 To think I only knew about Paris!
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Oh, France is full of delights like Lyon. Once you start with this amazing country, you don’t know where to stop.
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Looks like an amazing city – I have only got to explore Paris so far but I hope to get here soon! I hear the food is amazing too!
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Lyon is just a couple of hours from Paris…you can add it for a trip later.
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I love discovering smaller hidden gem towns. The architecture is so pretty along the riverfront! Would love to visit.
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It is really delightful. They have to rivers and two riverfronts…both very different.
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Lyon looks like a city I’d love, just like Paris, which I really, really love! Have been there 3 times and each time I never even went out of the city, not even to Versailles or Disneyland! Interesting to read the trivia about the astronomical clock to work for only 700 years! Wondering how they worked it out back when they first made it. In any case, to have it continued working for almost 700 years is already an amazing feat by any standard!
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I love Paris too, but the vibe in Lyon is very different. Its softer, but as elegant. Glad you enjoyed the other tidbits.
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I never have heard about Lyon’s traboules. So good to know! Lyon must be really a great place to know.
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Oh, then you must make it a point to go discover them. A lovely, lovely experience…
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That does sound like a perfect day as it has all the things I like – exploring a town by food, history, and good food. Lyon is on my list!
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Lyon should be on every Europe lovers’ list. I hope you do go.
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I am not sure if I have said this before that Your narration takes me to the place for the virtual tour. I have read many posts on your blog like this one and they are simply amazing. Love the pics you take. Keep up the good work.
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Thank you so much, Gokul. Yes, I prefer to write this way, its a trip back in time for me too, every time I make a post. Glad you enjoyed it.
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The pictures look so pretty! I love discovering local delights of a town, would love to explore this one!
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Lyon is a dream
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great post – i have flown into lyon but never explored it before. i will next time!
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You will love it.
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Sounds like the most perfect day! We’ve covered a lot of France, though haven’t yet made it to Lyon. I love that there’s so much culture and history in the one place. The interior of Notre Dame Basilica is awe inspiring!!
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Now you have a reason to go back. Lyon.
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France does not only have Paris, there are other cities that deserve to be known! Some with beautiful architectures others with beautiful waterfronts,… Glad to read your post which is about one of these cities! 🙂
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Many many others, Miriam. I have a long list. Lyon was just the first.
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Lyon looks amazing. I hope my husband and I can visit this romantic city some day. What a treasure. The architecture is so amazing plus I love UNESCO sites.
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And this is just the old town..other parts are as gorgeous .
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What a really beautiful city Lyon looks to be! Having just got back from Paris I’ve remembered how much I love French culture and I’m looking to go back in 2017, the inside of the cathedral looks absolutely stunning I think Lyon is going to be a strong contender! It even manages to look bright in the rain!
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Yes, French towns have a subtle sophistication that you can’t resist getting affected by. Lyon is a typical example of that.
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One thing I really wanted to see was Lyon’s traboules! My friend went recently and she had so much fun that it made me want to explore there too. I think I’d take it over Paris.
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The traboules are full of atmosphere. And to think that they’re just another part of some peoples’ homes..
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I’ve never been to France but I’m dying to go and this post makes me want to go even more. I’ll definitely have to check out Lyon when I am there. Thanks for the post!
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Definitely. Lyon is not a place one can miss in France.
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Lyon (and France in generally) are really high up on my must see list!it looks like such a beautiful city!
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It is too charming for words.
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While reading your post, I could feel the goosebumps on my like I was watching the ancient movies of war. Lyon is beautiful, and every walls seems hides many secrets, which makes it more appealing.
-blairvillanueva
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Lyon looks totally stunning. I always had it in my mind that it was very industrial so this shows a totally different city than what I imagined. May be perfect for a weekend break
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Industrial? Really? Then you would be completely taken aback when actually you see it. 🙂
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Your photos really took me to the soul of the place. Thanks, too, for the story!
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Ah! Thanks for saying that 🙂
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Wow, I would never expect that second largest city could the this pleasant. I always think about Lyon as crowded and stressful, but I have to rethink it now. Thanks for the tips where to go.
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This part of it is specially very peaceful…I’m sure you will enjoy it.
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Lyon looks like a fabulous place to visit, we really do need to explore more parts of France and Lyon would definitely be the first stop!
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Its a whole new perspective on France
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One of my favorite places in the world!
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Mine too, now that we’ve been there.
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Well if these photos aren’t jjst postcard perfect! Absoloutely stunning. I knew Lyon was pretty, but you may have made me fall in love with it! Wonderful ~
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Thank you so much. It was a dark, cloudy, rainy most of the day, otherwise the pictures would have been brighter. But I think they still bring out the essence of the place .
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So I don’t need to visit Lyon, because I felt like I was there with you! Just kidding! As usual, another amazing post! These pictures are incredible. We went to Paris for the fist time this year and it was so pretty, but now you have me wishing we would have gone to Lyon. It just looks so dreamy! There’s always another trip!
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That’s a lovely comment, actually. I hope you do go.
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I’ve always heard great things about Lyon, but haven’t been able to visit yet! I was about to go for a weekend a few years ago when I was living in Nice and finally couldn’t make it, I kind of regret it now after reading your post! The interior of the basilica looks incredible, such a detailed decoration!
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There will be another chance to go..
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That church looks quite amazing. I’m sure it’s a dream come true for city adventurers. Love the richness in colors of the buildings.
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The church is a huge highlight. Deserving of a separate post!
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I almost made it to Lyon and didn’t finally. And am so regretting it after seeing this post . 😦 Lovely pictures and description of the place.
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Ah! So I put it back on your list 🙂
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Lyon sounds like a great city to spend a little while in. I can’t believe how ornate the cathedralf is inside, beautiful.
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We spent three days and that was just perfect. But could have explored more if we stayed on.
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Me and my Dad drove past Lyon on the way to Nice last year. I don’t remember Lyon looking like this when we went past! I guess the actual city is a lot better than the outskirts. The bit by the river looks great!
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Yes, of course. This is the old town in the heart of Lyon. The area around the Rhone is as breathtaking.
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I didn’t know that Lyon is such a beautiful destination. Love all its architecture and adding it on my bucket list!
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Isn’t it lovely to have surprises like these in countries that you think you know well enough?
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Lyon looks very beautiful. Definitely a place I’d like to visit. Thanks for sharing.
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Its gorgeous. A must-see French town.
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I currently live in Lyon, and even though I see it every day I am still often struck by how beautiful the city is. Thanks for sharing! I’ve been to all these places, but I still learned some new things from your post.
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You are so lucky to be living in Lyon 🙂
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OH I have never been to Lyons but it looks gorgeous! I will have to check it out thank you for sharing!
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France’s second city certainly needs to be on every European traveller’s list!
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